I am having so much trouble I am not sure where to begin. My biggest problem right now is finding out my car has pressure fittings on the rear brake lines which is illegal where I live. And I found out by finding my brake line rotted away above a pressure fitting.
So now I need to run a new brake line.
The fitting for the rear brake line that is broken is connected to the dual porportioning valve which is almost below the master cylinder. The space is so small and so tight that I can't fit a normal sizes 10mm wrench in there. And even then I run the risk of hitting and breaking another brake line.
How do I get in there to work to get the fitting off the dual propotioning valve??
It is a 1996 Honda accord 4 cylinder automatic. I have a service manual but it doesn't tell me anything about how to do this.

 

I have not had to work on this so following is general guidance:

1) Remove obstructing components to gain access.

2) Crow-foot flare nut wrench allows turning w/ extension & ratchet and can be effective depending on orientation of tubing nut.

3) Flare nut wrenches (see Harbor Freight flare nut wrenches and crow foot flare nut) are essential to avoid rounding the tubing nuts.

good luck

 

Hello there... You'll be doing a lot of moving of parts under the hood, underneath isn't quite as bad. The lines are 1 piece from either the abs modulator or the proportioning valve back. A compression fitting doesn't give you the high-pressure seal required of a brake system. Basically, if slam on the brakes putting your full weight on the pedal, a compression fitting is likely to fail. I guess if you don't have ABS, so there should be either 1 line (possibly 1/4" (6.35mm)) that goes back and splits to the each wheel or two separate. Simply press the brake pedal reasonably hard while you start the engine, the brake pedal should dip down towards the floor slightly, this means the vacuum operated brake booster is working. Ask for more if you stuck at something.

Regards,
Anthony

 

One final suggestion would be to use galvanized or SS brake lines, if available. This would mitigate against salt corrosion, but not completely eliminate the risk. Galvanized would be best, and SS316 is fairly good but will still pit if constantly soaked in salt water.

Another benefit of living in TX is not having to deal w/ salt from roads.

good luck

 

Hi from W. PA. the trouble with this repair is that the honda brake line is so hard that you allmost can not flair it a flair fitting should be leagel that line is allmost imposssible to change if you have abs. Last summer I junked my girlfreind;s 1994 and my 1996 accord becouse of this and the fact that the rest of the lines looked very bad also. If you are going to do see if you can line from honda or look for a shop in your area that can repair the lines good luck

 

I did it about a month ago. The only way to get down to the proportioning valve is to remove the master cylinder and maybe the booster, it the only way I was able to do it with nothing in the way. Shop at Advace Auto Parts, they have cheapest prices, about $8.00 for 6' section. Replace both rear lines. You do have to take a piece of the old line to them. Use a flare nut wrench 10mm.