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96 accord starting issues

Old Oct 28, 2024 | 03:49 PM
  #11  
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Having fuel in the engine and starting fluid not working will move fuel down the list. I'd dry the spark plugs and use some compressed air to get excess fuel out of the cylinders to eliminate a too rich condition. Fuel is not 100% eliminated, because I'm not sure where you sourced the new injectors. I've seen where counterfit OEM injectors can cause problems. A dead giveaway is if they are dirt cheap on a site like ebay. Were the spark plugs wet when testing with the original injectors?

I'd investigate the distributor setup to check order of the spark plug wires and that you aren't 180° off.

If those check out, then my guess is that you have weak spark from the coil. The LX has an external coil and is easy to replace. If you still have access to the identical car, I'd try swapping the coil.
 
Old Oct 29, 2024 | 07:51 PM
  #12  
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I would try another set of new spark plugs. If it starts or tries to start before it fuel fouls them it is an over fuel issue...running full rich. Cleaning even new plugs doesn't always work. Make sure the spark plugs are tall enough for the spark plug wires. Some spark plugs are listing to fit your vehicle but are shorter and the spark plug wire boot gets held up by the valve cover. I had that happen with Bosh spark plugs. NGK is what Honda uses.
 
Old Oct 29, 2024 | 09:43 PM
  #13  
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the spark plugs only come out covered in gas after attempting to start------
Does this happen every time you try to start or only after you tried it with starting fluid
if it happens every time, I would test the TW sensor if it is bad it can cause a very rich mixture thus car won't start
 
Old Nov 3, 2024 | 12:28 AM
  #14  
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Good answer nomad2020. I was thinking he had a full rich condition early in the thread but did not know what part gives you that on an old Accord. I got my training in the old days with carburetors. Full rich is the same just what gives you that has changed.
 
Old Dec 29, 2024 | 01:38 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
Based on the information your first post, the engine should run, so I'll suggest some basic checks to make sure something wasn't missed. My apologies if I'm coming across as condesending, as you are a tech. Just trying to cover all the basics and help others who may read this thread in the future. I owned the 95 EX, so I'm very familiar with that car. I'll throw some ideas out there of things I can think of.

Get cyl 1 to TDC based on the timing marks (pulling the valve cover and using the cam sprockets is best) and pull off the distributor cap, is the rotor tip pointing towards the spark plug wire that goes to cyl 1 (driver's side cylinder farthest from the distributor)? I installed a distributor 180 out of time on my 95 accord, and I knew better, so it is possible. My mistake was not looking at the contact, but the rotor shape and I lined it up 180 out of time, so look specifically at the contact. Check the spark plug wires are in the correct firing order (1-3-4-2) on the cap looking at the cap from the passenger side of the car going clockwise.

It is possible the spark test by grounding the plug has enough spark to jump the gap at atmospheric pressure, but the coil is too weak when the plug is under compression in the cylinder. Essentially, you could have weak spark. If you haver access to an identical accord, you can swap over the coil to see if the car starts.

It is possible to switch the map and tps sensor electrical connectors on a 96 accord, because they are identical and close by. Check the wire colors to the map are yel/wht, grn/wht, and wht/yel. The TPS colors should be grn/blu, red/blk, and yel/blu.

An open EGR valve can also cause this problem. The EGR valve is operated by vacuum, so you can pull off the vacuum line and plug the line with a spark plug. Try to start the car. You can also pull the valve to check that the pintle isn't stuck. Use a swivel socket and 12mm (I think) 6-point socket, as using a boxed wrench can strip the bolt (Guess how I know?).

this when valves hit piston


 
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