Hi,
Just bought a 96 Accord LX 5-speed for my daughter. I used to have a 98 Accord years ago, but the ex-wife got that one.

Checking into the forum here to do a little research on stuff to get the 96 thru inspection...the front end is built a little differently than my 1991 Civic & my 2007 Civic Si, & I need to replace bearings, rotors & a ball joint, & also of course the axle nut is a different size, so I'll have to go get a 36mm socket..

It looks like I can unbolt the rotors & bearing housing and replace the two pieces..also, an entire upper arm (with ball joint) is like $30 on the internet, so no need to be pressing bearings and ball joints in and out of their respective housings...not even worth the hassle!

I've already got the caliper removed...if I get the axle out, will the bearing and rotor come off after that? I know, I know, I'll go do some searching...

 

Welcome to HAF!

You have some tech questions, so I'' relocate the post.

The bearing hub assy is pulled into the knuckle by 4 bolts. Sometimes they can be tapped out by installing a longer bolt and rapping the bolt head sharply to drive the hub out of knuckle.

regards

 

TH, thanks for the forum shift.

Of course, with a 16 year old car I have a new problem..one of those 10x40mm bolts on the back side of the knuckle, broke off, - I assume in the hub casing, but I am not exactly sure. How the hell do you separate the spindle/hub/rotor/knuckle? They all seem to spin freely of each other..do I still have to press/drive them apart? I have separated the assembly from the vehicle since the upper ball joint is on the inspection list and I have a upper control arm coming from Rock Auto along with the hub/bearing assy.

I am sitting here staring at the exploded diagrams from the OEM Honda parts websites trying to figure this out. Can I drill this broken bolt out, or do I take it to a machine shop?

edit - TH, thanks, I just re-read your post...it will take me a bit to figure out what you are saying...sounds like the opposite effect of pulling off brake drums by driving the bolt into those two little holes in the drum. (incidentally, that is on my list too..)

I thought that I had gotten away from car repairs and more recently I've been dealing with restoring an old boat...but the issues are really the same..figuring out ways to do things without paying people $75-100/hour to do it for you.
-Shawn

 

The bolts go through the knuckle assy and there are no threads in knuckle, so that broken bolt won't retain the hub assy. You need to remove the other bolts, and force the hub assy from the knuckle.

PM your email address and I''ll forward a pdf file I have on the procedure usiing long bolts and air impact to drive the hub assy out. There's also a neat video by ericthecarguy on youtube. Check it out.

Once hub assy is out you should be able to turn the broken bolt w/ vise grips, or worst case get someone to weld a nut to end of bolt to allow it to be turned out.

good luck

 

Like the last post search youtube for "eric the car guy honda wheel bearings" the video will show all. I have snapped those bolts as well, once I got one of the other bolts out I went to ACE and matched it up the best I could never had a problem with it. If the bolt broke off its once less bolt to get out of the wheel bearing which you are replacing, the hub is not threaded which is the piece you want to save.

 

thanks for the replies..I am off to check out Eric on the youtube.

 

Here is the Wagner procedure I mentioned.

http://www.remanbrakes.com/pdfs/hond...torremoval.pdf

Note, it's not necessary to use all 4 bolts. I bought only two accord rear suspension bolts that matched the knuckle bolts, but were 60+ mm length and high strength bolts.

good luck

 

Hello i got this tool Try-In Tools TRYGDT5 and i am trying to figure out how to use it, can you help me by pointing me to a link or user manual.

Thanks Mel