96 Ex Replacement Throttle Body Question
#1
96 Ex Replacement Throttle Body Question
I recently broke part of my FITV valve trying to get off the coolant hose. Luckily I was able to get a throttle body of a 96 LX with low miles. The owner said the car ran perfectly before the accident. I decided to not only replace the FITV, but also the entire throttle body. The Honda parts site shows them as the same part number and they do look identical. I also left the MAP sensor on the replacement throttle body.
My questions are two. There is a factory set screw that determines the amount of air that gets passed the throttle. It has yellow paint or threadlock on it. Is that set for the throttle body, independent of what engine it is on? Would I need to do any fine tuning of that ( it looks pretty darn hard to get at after installed, so I am thinking no.)
My other question is the throttle cables ( throttle and cruise control, now have a little slack in them. they are at no risk of coming off the pulley/cams that operate the throttle, but none the less, they have some play. Should those be adjusted to have some tension?
thanks!!!
My questions are two. There is a factory set screw that determines the amount of air that gets passed the throttle. It has yellow paint or threadlock on it. Is that set for the throttle body, independent of what engine it is on? Would I need to do any fine tuning of that ( it looks pretty darn hard to get at after installed, so I am thinking no.)
My other question is the throttle cables ( throttle and cruise control, now have a little slack in them. they are at no risk of coming off the pulley/cams that operate the throttle, but none the less, they have some play. Should those be adjusted to have some tension?
thanks!!!
#2
They are identical throttle bodies. Pretty much any Throttle body from any 92-02 Honda is the same, just may vary a bit in diameter, but are all interchangeable. The screw should be good to go.
And a little slack in the line shouldn't cause any problems, it'd have to be real loose to actually fall off. As long as you don't notice a difference in the pedal then it should be fine.
And a little slack in the line shouldn't cause any problems, it'd have to be real loose to actually fall off. As long as you don't notice a difference in the pedal then it should be fine.
#3
You should probably leave the mechanical stop-screw alone. It's supposed to be adjusted to only just prevent the throttle plate from wedging stuck closed. It's not adjusted for the individual engine.
The throttle cable MUST have a little bit of slack. In order for the idle-control system to work properly, the throttle plate has to close, even when temperature changes cause the cable to get a bit tighter or looser.
With an automatic trans, you have a cable going from the throttlebody down to the transmission. You should adjust that so the lever (on the transmission) just begins to move at exactly the same time as the throttle plate begins to open.
Then you should adjust the "BASE" idle by using the idle-air bleed valve. It's a small screw (flat-blade screwdriver) recessed in a hole above the bore of the throttle body. Look for instructions that I posted about setting the BASE idle. It's easy but there's more to it than just adjusting that screw.
The throttle cable MUST have a little bit of slack. In order for the idle-control system to work properly, the throttle plate has to close, even when temperature changes cause the cable to get a bit tighter or looser.
With an automatic trans, you have a cable going from the throttlebody down to the transmission. You should adjust that so the lever (on the transmission) just begins to move at exactly the same time as the throttle plate begins to open.
Then you should adjust the "BASE" idle by using the idle-air bleed valve. It's a small screw (flat-blade screwdriver) recessed in a hole above the bore of the throttle body. Look for instructions that I posted about setting the BASE idle. It's easy but there's more to it than just adjusting that screw.
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