I'm removing my head because I did a leak down test and it seemed to me that the #2 cylinder is leaking from the gasket. All I have left to remove is the cam pulley, distributor, and intake manifold. I just cannot get to the bottom intake manifold nuts, does anyone know how to get to those? It's only 3 or 4 nuts that's left to it, but I can't seem to get to them at all from above or below. Thanks for any help.

 

As I recall they can only be taken out from the bottom. They are accessible but maybe only 1/3 turn at a time? It's been awhile since I did it.

 

Yes you have to get them from the bottom. You will need swivel socket and a long extension to get them. If you remove the support bracket for the intake you may find it easier to get to them.

 

Or better yet, pull the head WITH the intake attached

Of course I'm not sure what car you are working on

 

I have an f22b2, I was wondering if I could just take the head off with the intake manifold on it, and I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. Thanks.

 

It should come off with the intake attached - my old 3rd gens would come off and go back on with the intake attached.

Going back in with it attached - have a helper so you don't "slam" the new gasket with the head as you are setting it down as it is a bit of a trick to "set it" down with the intake attached.

 

Yeah, I ended up pulling the head off with the intake attached, I'm considering getting a rebuilt head with the valves and all, I found it on eBay for a good price. My head looks like it has a small chip in cylinder #4 but I'm not sure. I'm just dreading putting back the timing belt and balance shaft belt and making sure I don't mess up the timing, and setting the distributor to TDC, do you know where I could find out exactly how to do all the timing correctly and the timing tension? Thanks.

 

The head is already off, right? So here's what you do...

1) Spin the crankshaft so the timing mark is at about 3-o-clock. That's 90-degrees before TDC. All 4 pistons will be at mid-stroke so there's no risk of contact with the valves.

2) Install the head. Of course you will clean up the headgasket surfaces, place the gasket right-side-up, all the normal stuff. But all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke so you DO NOT HAVE TO WORRY about valve positions. Torque the head bolts properly.

3) Install the camshaft? Did you even take it out of the head? Valve springs, rockers, all that stuff?

4) Turn the camshaft to #1tdc. The arrow on the camshaft sprocket will point generally upwards, but the REAL timing marks are 2 little dimples out at the sprocket teeth. Those line up with the top of the head. I think actually the top edge of a metal shroud between the sprocket & the top of the head where the valve-cover-gasket sits.

5) With the camshaft held in that position (#4), spin the crankshaft DIRECTLY to TDC. That means ONLY turn it 90-degrees. IF you go to far, turn it back to the right place. (Don't turn it through a full revolution just because you think you can't go backwards.)

6) Holding both the camshaft & crankshaft in place, install the belt & tensioner. Double-check the position of all the timing marks.

Now that the belt is installed, you should only spin the engine forwards.

 

Thanks for the help. Does anyone know where the dowel pins are supposed to be? I pulled off the head and didnt see them, there should be two of them and is it possible theyre in the block and I can fish them out with a magnet?

 

Back outer holes - check the head as well as they might have pulled out of the block when you pulled it?