98 Accord 2.3 Vibration
Okay, I have mentioned this casually in other posts on here, but now would like to figure it out.
I have cleaned the throttle body extensively by removing it completely and using carb cleaner on every visible part of the tb. I have adjusted the throttle by unplugging the EVAP sensor under the throttle cable, A/C off, etc. as alldata states and turned the idle screw. Idle vibration still persists.
I am still uncertain that I have done enough with the IACV. Everyone says clean this but the diagrams I see it looks as if the IACV is the unit on the bottom of the throttle body? Is that right? With possibly two vacuum lines coming off of it? Not sure I am certain exactly which appendage it is....lol. But how are you guys cleaning this out? The idle sits happily in the 7-800 range. Car idles beautifully, runs beautifully, accelerates on command, etc. Just vibrates when sitting still more than my liking. All motor mounts look fine. No cracks, etc. The rear is a little tricky to see, but looks competent from what I can tell. Any other helpful tips? I guess the IACV cleaning is my main concern. I want to know that I am doing that right. Thanks.
I have cleaned the throttle body extensively by removing it completely and using carb cleaner on every visible part of the tb. I have adjusted the throttle by unplugging the EVAP sensor under the throttle cable, A/C off, etc. as alldata states and turned the idle screw. Idle vibration still persists.
I am still uncertain that I have done enough with the IACV. Everyone says clean this but the diagrams I see it looks as if the IACV is the unit on the bottom of the throttle body? Is that right? With possibly two vacuum lines coming off of it? Not sure I am certain exactly which appendage it is....lol. But how are you guys cleaning this out? The idle sits happily in the 7-800 range. Car idles beautifully, runs beautifully, accelerates on command, etc. Just vibrates when sitting still more than my liking. All motor mounts look fine. No cracks, etc. The rear is a little tricky to see, but looks competent from what I can tell. Any other helpful tips? I guess the IACV cleaning is my main concern. I want to know that I am doing that right. Thanks.
The rear motor mount on the automatic transmission accords has an actuator that is vacuum operated. This changes the stiffness of the rear mount to handle vibration. I would check the vacuum hose to see if it is attached or damaged. There is an arm that moves when vacuum is applied.
I never owned an automatic, so I never had to check this.
I never owned an automatic, so I never had to check this.
Follow the vacuum hose & locate the solenoid. Get to where you can unplug the wire harness. (It's probably not real easy to reach)
Get a helper you trust. Drive around to get it all warmed up. Put it in gear (R or D) with the engine idling. Unplug that solenoid & plug it back in. That is supposed to make a big difference in vibration. If it doesn't, then you get to look for broken vacuum hoses or bad wiring.
If it DOES make a big difference in vibration, then maybe it's normal. I had one of those cars and it did have some normal vibration at idle in gear.
Also, go to the DIY section & search for a post by me about setting the BASE idle. You need to unplug the IACV & adjust it to a very low value like 550. Then reset it & allow the system to re-learn the idle.
Get a helper you trust. Drive around to get it all warmed up. Put it in gear (R or D) with the engine idling. Unplug that solenoid & plug it back in. That is supposed to make a big difference in vibration. If it doesn't, then you get to look for broken vacuum hoses or bad wiring.
If it DOES make a big difference in vibration, then maybe it's normal. I had one of those cars and it did have some normal vibration at idle in gear.
Also, go to the DIY section & search for a post by me about setting the BASE idle. You need to unplug the IACV & adjust it to a very low value like 550. Then reset it & allow the system to re-learn the idle.
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