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98 accord Battery/4 doors/ brake lights all lit

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98 accord Battery/4 doors/ brake lights all lit

  #11  
Old 09-27-2018, 02:50 PM
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No there are multiple ground points on a car. I would have them checked
 
  #12  
Old 10-19-2018, 05:59 PM
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Thanks for everybody that was helping me. Sorry it took me so long to get an update. I finally ended up taking it to a different mechanic because BMW obviously just didn't have time for me and they don't know what they're talking about. My new mechanic said that I have a bad PCM and it's going to cost me $1,500 to replace? Does this sound right, also if you know of a cheaper place to possibly get one then the Honda dealership can you let me know? Thanks everyone
 
  #13  
Old 10-19-2018, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Fr0stypenguin0 View Post
Thanks for everybody that was helping me. Sorry it took me so long to get an update. I finally ended up taking it to a different mechanic because BMW obviously just didn't have time for me and they don't know what they're talking about. My new mechanic said that I have a bad PCM and it's going to cost me $1,500 to replace? Does this sound right, also if you know of a cheaper place to possibly get one then the Honda dealership can you let me know? Thanks everyone
You should check the pull-a-part lots. Probably no more than $50.
 
  #14  
Old 10-19-2018, 10:23 PM
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Is it easy to pull out? Also is there a way to test it before removing it?
 
  #15  
Old 10-20-2018, 10:22 AM
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Is your car still having the problem of lurching? Or is this now only an electrical problem with the cluster?
 
  #16  
Old 10-20-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fr0stypenguin0 View Post
Is it easy to pull out? Also is there a way to test it before removing it?
It's buried behind the dash on top of the tunnel. I think you have to pull the console to access it (at least the front part of it). Once you have it out, it can be back probed to help you find your problem, using the FSM that has a link to at the top of the forum page.
I wouldn't pay 1500 for an item I can get at a pick n pull or off e-bay cheaper. The last 1 I bought, I paid 100 bucks for (for my 97 Accord), and it didn't fix it. My son got 1 for his 98 Civic for 35 at a pick n pull when he went with a friend (he was after Mitsubishi parts).
 
  #17  
Old 10-21-2018, 04:50 PM
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IIRC, you can get at the wiring harness plugs for the PCM by pulling the panel alongside the passenger's left foot. If you want to check wiring connections.

But maybe you need to dismantle more of the console to actually remove the PCM. I'd start with the side panels way forward then maybe the storage box forwards from the gearshift lever. I never had to remove mine, but chances are you'll get all the screws except one (!) then have to remove the console anyway.
 
  #18  
Old 10-22-2018, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda View Post
Is your car still having the problem of lurching? Or is this now only an electrical problem with the cluster?

The lurching happened again on Wednesday. That's why I took the car to a new mechanic. The last time I had a lurching problem it was the battery. Frank, my new mechanic, said every time light cluster comes on my alternator stops charging the battery. However the alternator tests perfectly.
 
  #19  
Old 10-22-2018, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Fr0stypenguin0 View Post
The lurching happened again on Wednesday. That's why I took the car to a new mechanic. The last time I had a lurching problem it was the battery. Frank, my new mechanic, said every time light cluster comes on my alternator stops charging the battery. However the alternator tests perfectly.
It might be a crappy rebuild then. On some of the other forums I'm on, crappy rebuilds are becoming more and more common these days.
Is it a genuine Denso part? Or just an Autozone rebuild? Just asking, as not all rebuilds are equal, even though the prices for them at auto parts stores are within a couple of bucks. My son just got a CarQuest rebuilt one for his Civic. He paid 116 plus his old one (had a 63 dollar core). It was cheaper than a genuine Denso, by over 100 bucks.
 
  #20  
Old 10-23-2018, 06:48 AM
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There's a white/green wire in the alternator plug. The PCM uses this to command the alternator to shut down, by grounding that wire. So if the insulation is rubbed away somewhere & that wire is shorting to ground, that will cause the alternator to shut down. Check that wire for being shorted to ground.
 

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