98 accord Battery/4 doors/ brake lights all lit
#12
Update
Thanks for everybody that was helping me. Sorry it took me so long to get an update. I finally ended up taking it to a different mechanic because BMW obviously just didn't have time for me and they don't know what they're talking about. My new mechanic said that I have a bad PCM and it's going to cost me $1,500 to replace? Does this sound right, also if you know of a cheaper place to possibly get one then the Honda dealership can you let me know? Thanks everyone
#13
Thanks for everybody that was helping me. Sorry it took me so long to get an update. I finally ended up taking it to a different mechanic because BMW obviously just didn't have time for me and they don't know what they're talking about. My new mechanic said that I have a bad PCM and it's going to cost me $1,500 to replace? Does this sound right, also if you know of a cheaper place to possibly get one then the Honda dealership can you let me know? Thanks everyone
#16
I wouldn't pay 1500 for an item I can get at a pick n pull or off e-bay cheaper. The last 1 I bought, I paid 100 bucks for (for my 97 Accord), and it didn't fix it. My son got 1 for his 98 Civic for 35 at a pick n pull when he went with a friend (he was after Mitsubishi parts).
#17
IIRC, you can get at the wiring harness plugs for the PCM by pulling the panel alongside the passenger's left foot. If you want to check wiring connections.
But maybe you need to dismantle more of the console to actually remove the PCM. I'd start with the side panels way forward then maybe the storage box forwards from the gearshift lever. I never had to remove mine, but chances are you'll get all the screws except one (!) then have to remove the console anyway.
But maybe you need to dismantle more of the console to actually remove the PCM. I'd start with the side panels way forward then maybe the storage box forwards from the gearshift lever. I never had to remove mine, but chances are you'll get all the screws except one (!) then have to remove the console anyway.
#18
The lurching happened again on Wednesday. That's why I took the car to a new mechanic. The last time I had a lurching problem it was the battery. Frank, my new mechanic, said every time light cluster comes on my alternator stops charging the battery. However the alternator tests perfectly.
#19
The lurching happened again on Wednesday. That's why I took the car to a new mechanic. The last time I had a lurching problem it was the battery. Frank, my new mechanic, said every time light cluster comes on my alternator stops charging the battery. However the alternator tests perfectly.
Is it a genuine Denso part? Or just an Autozone rebuild? Just asking, as not all rebuilds are equal, even though the prices for them at auto parts stores are within a couple of bucks. My son just got a CarQuest rebuilt one for his Civic. He paid 116 plus his old one (had a 63 dollar core). It was cheaper than a genuine Denso, by over 100 bucks.
#20
There's a white/green wire in the alternator plug. The PCM uses this to command the alternator to shut down, by grounding that wire. So if the insulation is rubbed away somewhere & that wire is shorting to ground, that will cause the alternator to shut down. Check that wire for being shorted to ground.