98 EX V6 Cooling Fan not working in drive
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From: Houston, TX
I like to use OEM parts unless the OEM price is outrageous.
The OEM part from the dealership will be about $35. Online are $25 + shipping (so maybe $30 total, but you have to wait)
I would compare the price difference to the aftermarket switch, then make the call.
The OEM part from the dealership will be about $35. Online are $25 + shipping (so maybe $30 total, but you have to wait)
I would compare the price difference to the aftermarket switch, then make the call.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Wisconsin
I've used lots of parts that aren't in a box with HONDA or SAAB on it. Most times I do some homework try to find out who makes the part for Honda.
For example Denso makes oxygen sensors for Honda. NGK is the OEM spark plug. I've used Gates belts. I don't know who actually makes the fan switches, but I've used Beck/Arnly parts before & they were OK. Sometimes it's difficult to find out who actually makes something.
And why are you afraid of "air bleed"? All you gotta do is open the bleeder screw & allow the air to escape. Hondas do not like to have air-pockets in their cooling systems.
For example Denso makes oxygen sensors for Honda. NGK is the OEM spark plug. I've used Gates belts. I don't know who actually makes the fan switches, but I've used Beck/Arnly parts before & they were OK. Sometimes it's difficult to find out who actually makes something.
And why are you afraid of "air bleed"? All you gotta do is open the bleeder screw & allow the air to escape. Hondas do not like to have air-pockets in their cooling systems.
Last edited by JimBlake; Jan 30, 2011 at 09:04 AM.
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Junior Member
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OEM and air bleed
Hi JIMBLAKE
I guess what I'm about to order either by Standard or Beck is considered an OEM part.... not sure since it's from and online store, not Honda. My Honda Dealer in SF is so marked up. They wand $70 for the part by Nippon! I can get this Thermo including shipping for $16..... so I'm going for it.
Okay about bleeding I believe you or others described the process, so should I do it before or after I get the new part installed? I'm just not used to this car yet. My old Audi was a challenge at times but not like this car.
I guess what I'm about to order either by Standard or Beck is considered an OEM part.... not sure since it's from and online store, not Honda. My Honda Dealer in SF is so marked up. They wand $70 for the part by Nippon! I can get this Thermo including shipping for $16..... so I'm going for it.
Okay about bleeding I believe you or others described the process, so should I do it before or after I get the new part installed? I'm just not used to this car yet. My old Audi was a challenge at times but not like this car.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,099
From: United States
The Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) thermo switches for your car are:
SWITCH ASSY., THERMO (A-93) (NIPPON THERMOSTAT)
SWITCH ASSY., THERMO (A-93) (UCHIYA)
What you receive from these other parts suppliers may or may not be OEM. Sometimes some OEM parts are just repackaged.
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Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
Bleed the air out AFTER you replace the switch. When you remove the old switch, that's when antifreeze can pour out & air get in the hole.
1 - Be prepared with the new switch, so you can put it in very quickly & only lose a couple ounces of antifreeeze.
2 - Bleed air out after it's all together & after you've run the engine at least a minute or so. The air moves around & eventually collects at 2 places: radiator cap & bleed screw.
3 - WARNIG! DON'T PANIC!!!! (j/k) Bleeding the air out isn't nearly as difficult as you seem to believe.
VW/Audi has their own strangeness. Cooling system doesn't vent out to an atmospheric reservoir. The reservoir is pressurized and the system is arranged so all the air collects in that bottle. Then there's the air-mass-flow sensors...
Or lets talk about Saabs that use the sparkplugs for knock-sensors. Each car company has their strange ways of doing things, you just have to learn what they are & then it's not so mysterious any more.
1 - Be prepared with the new switch, so you can put it in very quickly & only lose a couple ounces of antifreeeze.
2 - Bleed air out after it's all together & after you've run the engine at least a minute or so. The air moves around & eventually collects at 2 places: radiator cap & bleed screw.
3 - WARNIG! DON'T PANIC!!!! (j/k) Bleeding the air out isn't nearly as difficult as you seem to believe.
VW/Audi has their own strangeness. Cooling system doesn't vent out to an atmospheric reservoir. The reservoir is pressurized and the system is arranged so all the air collects in that bottle. Then there's the air-mass-flow sensors...
Or lets talk about Saabs that use the sparkplugs for knock-sensors. Each car company has their strange ways of doing things, you just have to learn what they are & then it's not so mysterious any more.
Last edited by JimBlake; Jan 30, 2011 at 05:16 PM.
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Bleed the air out AFTER you replace the switch. When you remove the old switch, that's when antifreeze can pour out & air get in the hole.
1 - Be prepared with the new switch, so you can put it in very quickly & only lose a couple ounces of antifreeeze.
2 - Bleed air out after it's all together & after you've run the engine at least a minute or so. The air moves around & eventually collects at 2 places: radiator cap & bleed screw.
3 - WARNIG! DON'T PANIC!!!! (j/k) Bleeding the air out isn't nearly as difficult as you seem to believe.
1 - Be prepared with the new switch, so you can put it in very quickly & only lose a couple ounces of antifreeeze.
2 - Bleed air out after it's all together & after you've run the engine at least a minute or so. The air moves around & eventually collects at 2 places: radiator cap & bleed screw.
3 - WARNIG! DON'T PANIC!!!! (j/k) Bleeding the air out isn't nearly as difficult as you seem to believe.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
uh bpp... You might be right.
At any rate, you'll want to let air out & top up the antifreeze at the radiator cap. Then after a few driving cycles, when the car's cold, squeeze the radiator hoses. You'll hear sloshing if there's air. (IOW, you'd like for it to NOT sound like any air sloshing in there)
At any rate, you'll want to let air out & top up the antifreeze at the radiator cap. Then after a few driving cycles, when the car's cold, squeeze the radiator hoses. You'll hear sloshing if there's air. (IOW, you'd like for it to NOT sound like any air sloshing in there)
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Junior Member
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Hi JimBlake, PAHonda. I got the new Therma Switch A and I'm going to replace it Friday morning here in SF time. Other than bleeding the system, is there anything else I need to know going forward with this job? I will need to buy a 24mm socket, do I need any locktite
or etc?
Upon easy installation, how can I easily know that the fan is working at the proper temperature? It might be hard to hear the fan come on when I am driving it. Do you have a method that I should follow to know the problem is resolved? Obviously I know that if the gauge needle doesn't climb, that is one sign. Hopefully I will not see that happen again.
or etc?
Upon easy installation, how can I easily know that the fan is working at the proper temperature? It might be hard to hear the fan come on when I am driving it. Do you have a method that I should follow to know the problem is resolved? Obviously I know that if the gauge needle doesn't climb, that is one sign. Hopefully I will not see that happen again.
Last edited by rolling; Feb 3, 2011 at 06:53 PM.
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Posts: 16,334
From: Houston, TX
I think the sensor has an o-ring, so no RTV is needed.
Start the car and drive it around until engine reaches normal temperature. Park the car, let the engine idle. Make sure heater is set to cold and interior fan is turned off. Open hood and see if the two fans turn on before the needle starts moving up.
Start the car and drive it around until engine reaches normal temperature. Park the car, let the engine idle. Make sure heater is set to cold and interior fan is turned off. Open hood and see if the two fans turn on before the needle starts moving up.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
The threads on the switch/sensor are "pipe" threads so in theory nothing is needed to seal it....EDIT: and the o-ring helps-sorry PA forgot about that....
Keep an eye on the gauge...then after driving home from worrk or whatever, leave the car running and pop the hood. Might take a few minutes but as the car is sitting still the gauge should climb, just a little, and then the fans-both-should kick on.
Keep an eye on the gauge...then after driving home from worrk or whatever, leave the car running and pop the hood. Might take a few minutes but as the car is sitting still the gauge should climb, just a little, and then the fans-both-should kick on.
Last edited by poorman212; Feb 3, 2011 at 07:42 PM.