Hi All

Thanks to you all I got the Therma A and put it in. I really was quite easy... the hardest part was finding the 24mm deep socket in stock.

I followed your directions, worked quick, maybe lost a 1/2 pint and closed it up. I studied the area very carefully and never saw a bleed port. It must not be on this model or it's very hidden. Anyway I took my car for a long drive around the city, up and down steep hills and what do you know, the fan came on several times. I stopped the car and listened carefully, and also when I parked it came on in idle. I'm not sure if there is air in the line, I have opened it, and replenished some coolant... I think I squeezed the hoses, frankly I don't know by that if I felt air.

Now if I understand it right the Therma B should not come on after I stop unless it's overheated? Now it isn't coming on as it did before. It's just a redundent switch, right?

 

Glad that your problem is fixed.

Thermo B switch turns on the fans only when the engine is turned off. It also turns the fans at a higher temperature compared to Thermo A switch.

The B switch is there to help cool the engine when the car is shut off to prevent damage to the engine. A second switch is necessary due to how the fans are controlled.

 

Hi PAhonda

Therm B was turning on the fan as it should, when the engine was off. Now since I put in the new Therm A, the Therm B so far hasn't run the fan, at least in my presence. I'm wondering does Therm B always, upon every shut down turn on the fan, or only when it was really compensating for the problem when the engine was getting overheated? Am I making sense here? Let me know if I can be clearer. I don't hear it come on these days after I shut off the engine, and I'm hoping that doesn't mean it suddenly is out, or if it's just that the engine is running cooler now.

 

I think you'll find that after turning off the engine; the fan will only need to run during summertime after the engine is thoroughly hot.

 

Thank you as well, after reading countless posts on this website, This was the only posts that had the same problem, I am so happy that I was able to fix this with the help of this site!!! I am a new member and will continue being one.. The repair cost to diagnose and fix this was over three hundred dollars... thank you so much!!!

 

Big Bummer! I put the switch in last month as stated, all worked fine. Just last evening I was on my long commute and when I got back into the city in stop and go traffic, the gauge started climbing again and I was overheating. Got home ok and sat in the driveway idleing and the fans didn't come on! The minute I turned off the car they came on. So Therm B is kicking in correctly.... but now what... the new Thermo A switch isn't any good?

Could it be something else is my question, something that is ruining the switch, or just a defective part? I'm on a warrenty so I can replace that brand of switch only as it is an online store. It will be days before I have the new part so please let me know if you think I just got a bad part. I feel defeated!

 

What about flaky wiring harness to that switch?

Jumper the wire with a paperclip, turn on the key (fan should turn on). See if you can get the fan to act flaky by moving the wire around??

 

Thanks JimB

I did check that out and the wire snap-on doesn't snap all the way down over the plastic therm, so it slipped and it worked it's way loose. I pushed it on as best I could and drove around and the fans started working fine. Stupidly I reordered a replacement and it was shipped before i discovered this, so the new one will have the same misfit. I guess I will use electrical tape to secure it... I guess that will work.

 

How about a nylon wire-tie? I bet the electrical tape will get gooey & loosen up with the heat.

What's broken to prevent it from latching? Splice a new plug into the wiring harness?

 

Poorman's advise-others have done it as well. Make sure the terminals are making good contact. A drop of silicone on the connector-suggest the outside of the switch or inside the connector-not to the actual pins. Let it cure, then give it a little help with the wire tie (bread or nylon) or something along the same line.

If course Jim has the real answer "Splice a new plug into the wiring harness". Local boneyard and a pair of snips...good to go- I bet they let you out of there for < $5.