I have a 99 Accord LX, 2.3 4-cyl, automatic, 217,000 miles. I'm an amateur mechanic with ok skills - no lift or air tools.

I need to replace the flex (front) pipe. My Chilton's manual doesn't have this repair in it. I can see that the heat shield comes off, and that the bolts by the manifold will be hard to reach (from underneath :-(

Can someone link me to a guide? Or just offer some experienced direction? If it's got serious issues, I'll order the part and take it to get it done.

Thanks


Walker Exhaust Pipe
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Sale Price:
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Part Number: 5982-05236714
Notes: Walker Front Pipe -- Without California Emissions
Condition: New

 

The one picture/link wouldn't open for me - pretty sure it is just me and my computer. I looked at the PN listed (5982-05236714) and the picture that came up was for a 6 cyl.


Anyway, the hardest part of this is going to be the nuts/bolts that are at the converter. Given the age of the car and the part of the country where you live I will guess they are pretty well rusted in place.

Yes to do this you will have to get the front of the car up in the air - if you do not have a jack and JACK STANDS do not do this - getting crushed by the car is not worth it.

 

The more I price the part the more I see that that first pipe from the manifold is called the head pipe or the front pipe. I've discovered that the flex pipe is a small section of the front pipe that is what is leaking but it's too hard to splice out and weld in the flex section. (and I don't weld) SO the job is the whole front pipe.

I have a good garage jack and jack stands - I've done lots of brake and suspension work, and some muffler work, so I'm not as much of a rack beginner as I sounded.

Yes, I assume the bolts at the cat will be bad. I will spray them and/or heat them up (if I don't see a fuel line...I'm kind of phobic about flame under my cars.) Procedure-wise, I'm not sure what has to come apart up top to get the pipe off at the top end.

 

The pipe bolts to the exhaust manifold down between the radiator & the block. Soak the fasteners good with PB Blaster or your favorite kind of penetrant.

Especially the other flange, where it bolts to the cat-converter, you might want to have new fasteners. I can never seem to get them all to come apart without breaking something. If you already have new, then you can saw the old ones off if you need to.

Fuel lines and brake lines are all together (5 steel tubes in all) and located in a plastic tray sort of arrangement running along the underside of the car on the driver's side. I'm not sure, but I don't think they are too close to the bolts if you need to use some heat.