Hi!
I still have the General Tso, my 1992 Accord. I am redoing the rotors since I feel a groove in them and they are old. It's not a deep groove but the jerky movement at low speed is of concern. It's been doing that for some time. The pads are beeeyutiful! The master cylinder was replaced this spring. So that leaves one thing other than calipers....

I want to tell everyone that it takes two cans of brake cleaner and to use a wire to hang the caliper. Brake lines are not for holding dangling parts unless you have another car and a brake bleeding buddy.

If your rotor is over the hub it's a piece of cake. My final advice; 14mm MEANS 14mm. Don't use a 9/16 in wrench or try a 14mm bone style wrench to remove the rotor bolts. Metric wrench sets from 10-20mm or so are not a waste of money. I haven't totally stripped the bolts for the rotor but that remains to be seen. Spend the money, wait, and get good tools and be sure they're there. And Liquid Wrench and a rubber mallet are your best friends on the caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts. Throw your pads, etc into a moderate sized box to not lose them.

Look at the FAQ's and yank the wheel before you head to the auto parts place. Or more importantly, the dealer. Sometimes you have to throw in the towel but shop around first before going to the dealer.

Now to clean what Goop didn't get off....

Luv ya guys
KT

 

Good little write up there KT..Thanks for puttin it in there for all to see..

WheelBrokerAng

 

Easy on the applauseAng; I didn't get the rotor off tonight as I had planned. I found out about the 36mm nut on the hub. The consensus is that the rotor is quite an animal to deal with. Upon completion of the task I will have more.

 

The whole hub/rotor/bearing assembly have to come out to slide the rotor over the bearing. Despite what you will read, the hub is only pressed into the bearing and you can replace the rotor.

Make sure that you unbolt the bearing from the back of the knuckle. You might get lucky and the bearing will pull out from the knuckle easily. You usually need force to get it out of there. The DIY section has a writeup that may help. That tool deserthonda suggests is expensive. The diameter of that tool is close to the diameter of a hockey puck, so you may be able to make a cheap replica using a long bolt, a wing nut, and a large washer.

There is also a writeup about threading long bolts in through the back of the bearing and using an air hammer to get the hub/bearing out of there. Google brake fax #64 honda and the top hit will be a pdf describing the procedure. You may have to remove the whole knuckle to get room hammer out the bearing.

Good Luck.

 

If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, you might want to consider this tool:
http://try-intools.com/
Watch the video of how to use it.

I have one and I think it's the cat's meow. It operates exactly as that video shows and replacing rotors is a breeze.

Other than the time it takes to get the axle nut off the car (which may be considerable), you can replace rotors in less than an hour - with no knuckle injuries.

As far as the axle nut itself goes, if they have not been removed in a very long time, they can be almost impossible to remove without a powerful impact wrench. So you might want to consider removing the wheel covers and driving the car it to a Honda dealer and have them loosen and re-tighten the axle nuts. I believe that they can be loosened with the wheels still on the car (but with covers removed, of course) . Depending on the disposition of the service manager, this can be an extremely inexpensive "repair".

Our local dealer did mine for free. With the covers already off the wheels, the car was in and out of the dealership in under ten minutes.

Good luck.