The mounts look fine from what I can see but not 100% sure about that.

1. First shift into reverse in the morning causes the tach to jump (engine revs a bit) about 500 RPM up and then back down. This is right after starting the car where the RPM is already high to begin with.

2. If the car has been sitting for a while the first shift up from first gear causes the car to sort of slow down and then pick up. Every morning on my way to work, I reverse out of drive way turn the corner and now that I have a long straight road I start to pick up speed. When it shifts up out of first the car feels like it's slowing down and you can feel it buck a little (car slows down slightly). No sounds, no vibration. This happens also after work when I start it up after it's been sitting for about 8 hours and start to get out of the parking lot.

3. The most annoying thing and the one that worries me the most is when I'm in tight traffic. If there's no traffic and I'm cruising along at highway speeds everything is great. But when I'm in traffic that forces me to drive under 10mph it causes the car to buck (more severely than the one above) when I let off the gas. So say I'm in back to back traffic, the car in front of me pulls forward about ten feet so I put on the gas the speed goes up to about 8mph I roll forward but when I let off the gas to start braking as soon as my foot comes off the gas pedal the car quickly jerks backward. No sounds, or vibration the car violently moves back very noticably. So as traffic moves along at snails pace this happens every time I let off the gas and I have to keep tapping the pedal to keep traffic moving it gets irritating.

If this is normal I feel like this is damaging the trans. Should I switch to a different gear for back to back traffic?

 

Is D4 light flashing? Even if not, see DIY forum on extracting obd1 codes and see if any trans codes (D4 light flashes codes when prompted by shorting service check connector).

Has ATF been changed recently? If not, this can often improve shifting performance. Honda ATF is highly recommended.

good luck

 

Never flashed. Not sure how I would check this on OBD2?

I changed the ATF myself 4 times. When I first purchased the car at around 30,000 miles it was really dirty. I changed it with ATF-Z1 x4 to do a "flush" on it. Drove it around about 1000 miles between each change. Didn't notice a difference before or after. The fluid looks great now, nice and pink and mostly clear when you drain it.

 

The car has both Obd1 and obd2 access to codes. There should be a 2-wire blue electrical connector under glove box to short for access to obd1 codes.

If engine shifts are flaring (rpm increase during shift), this is usually a symptom of worn trans parts (pump, valves, clutches) causing slow gear engagement. Some learn to left off gas slightly to reduce flaring. My brother drove an 80's accord like this for years.

The bucking problem could be sticking lockup torque converter, if rpm is going low (similar to driving a manual trans too slow in higher gear).

Codes may or may not be present, but if present will help w/ problem.

good luck

 

If it's your 2009 Accord, it needs an OBD-II reader/scanner to retrieve any trouble code(s).

If it's your 1995 4 cylinder, you jump the blue Service Check Connector (SCS) on the passenger side.

1995 4 cylinder is OBD-I; 1995 V6 had the blue SCS connector (OBD-I) and the separate OBD-II port.

Either one of the cars will benefit from an ATF change. DW-1 is Honda's latest ATF, a synthetic fluid.

Since you have the 2 different generation Accord, please remember to tell us which one in your threads.