Calipers are new, they move free and all is assembled correctly, I have good pressure on passenger side lil pressure on drivers side

 

Everything is correct and brakes don't work? You are missing something.

You said earlier you had pressure on driver's side brake when bleeding. In last post you said you had little pressure. Are you gettng a fuel stream of fluid when you crack the bleeder?

If yes, there is pressure at the bleeder. Why is there not braking action? Something must be wrong w/ caliper.

good luck

 

Okie to clarify, plenty of flow from all bleeders, just no braking pressure on drivers side

 

When you crack the bleeder pressure is indicated by a brief strong flow.

Lack of braking action does not indicate no pressure, rather it means that pressure is not being transferred to brake pads. Why?

If brakes are assembled correctly, then caliper piston must be frozen.

good luck

 

How are you testing the braking pressure?

 

Not testing actual pressure, just know that my passenger rotor gets burning hot and drivers stays cool, also car pulls hard right when brakes are applied. Also my fiance discovered that when you hold the pedal with firm pressure it slowly falls to the floor whether running or not, I do believe I have discovered a faulty master cylinder may be to blame

 

OK so I have now changed the calipers, both are functioning properly, replaced all hardware, both hoses are like new, replaced master cylinder, surprisingly enough both lines came right off easy. I plan to bleed the entire system again and inspect rear brakes and while I'm wrenching it is getting a new IACV as the idle is sometimes fine and other times revs up quite high.

 

Sounds like progress

 

Progress it is, it now has even brakes but still a spongy pedal a bit. Gonna billed the snot out of it a few more times and hope for the best

 

So I adjusted the rear drums today and I now have about ninety percent pedal, I believe that I still have a small amount of air in there to get out bit so far so good