Well I finally made it to the point where I can try bleeding brakes. As was recommended in the very helpful DIY section, did LF>RF>LR>RR wheels, got a decent pedal. But as soon as I applied boosted pressure after starting the engine, pedal became spongy and after inspecting the wheels RR has a leak. On the front brakes I used copper washers on the brake hose connection (came with new calipers) but on the rear calipers I just reused the ones that were there before. What could be causing rear caliper to leak? I tightened the brake hoses and bleed screws pretty well, but I don’t want to put too much torque on em, not to strip the threads. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

where EXACTLY is the leak?
why would you pull the hose loose to bleed the brakes?

 

I’ve taken out the calipers to clean and paint them, then replaced the pads and put it back. I am not 100% sure but it looks like the bleeder. Because it’s painted makes it difficult to see. I know, I know, why the heck did I need them painted in the first place? Cause they look cool, that’s why [8D]

 

its probably leaking from the washers, replace them

 

i always thought you were sposed to bleed from teh farthest away to the closest to the masterr cyl....so rr, lr, rf, lf...

 

werd. Always start from farthest and work towards closest.

 

the sequence changed on hondas awile back, it says what year exactly in DH's DIY on brake bleeding.

 

No not always. That's pretty old-school.

With dual-diagonal brakes (beginning about 1970) you bleed each diagonal circuit starting with the rear. So RR-LF-LR-RF. Sometimes the other diagonal circuit was first, depending on which was 'primary' in the MC.

With ABS the bleeding order can be all over the place. It depends on the plumbing details. It's based on which line can push air bubbles into which other line.

For '98 & '99 Accord (maybe all 6th-gen?) it's LF-RF-RR-LR.

If you do the wrong order, the problem is you might have to go around a couple times before all the bubbles get worked out of the system.

 

if you have a verifiable leak, then fix that leak. get new washers. remove the bleeder screw. inspect for any objects or crap (paint?)that could have gotten in there. bleeding from the hose bolt will work, but it can also cause a small air pocket to we trapped by the bleeder in this case. this normally won't ever happen if you are servicing the car, but you had the entire caliper assembly off, so i don't what you painted, etc.

so after new washers and inspecting the bleeder screw threads/hole, bleed that caliper, seal it up, wash it down with brake clean, and check it.