I got a good drill bit kit, milwaukee 23 Titanium Drill bit set. I got good shredding at first. Then bit broke. Then after that it really never shredded. My dremel kit just didn't have a grinding bit small enough to fit in the hole. And I didn't have a cutter to cut a tip in it either. So I gave up on and didn't want to waste too much more time.

This is my second attempt with the gasket. This is a very important tip by the way when replacing oil pan gasket. Do not try permatex (ultra black Max oil resistant gasket maker) or (3m black super weatherstrip adhesive) (quick dry) to stick the gasket on the pan. IT WONT WORK! And gasket will move and slip when you are trying to put it up there. It never sticks for some reason.

Instead I put some permatex (doesn't take much to stick, just around some corners) on the block and then put the gasket on first! I noticed this because I put permatex on the hole that the bolt is stuck in. <---- some how every tutorial video and installation instructions never mentioned this!
So far no oil leaks (I just tested this 20 mins ago and got the engine warmed up) Even though one bolt is missing. It scared me because I still have the exhaust pipe off. And it tried to go backwards, even though the E break is on, there is a rock blocking the tires in the back.


Well, anyways after the first attempt failed and I noticed the pan that gave me had a defect. Ever since then it rolls. So I need some help here. There is a transmission cover that has a wheel that spins around. Okay now the vehicle rolls on a incline even when emergency brake (sometimes) is on. It will shift to N. So I can move it backwards and forwards. I don't think it's working on drive anymore. As I needed a truck to move it up on the wheel ramps too. It's just revving.

What happened during the first installation that went wrong? I had it on the wheel ramps (incline) too long? Did oil get on the wheel convertor that spins. Is that shift cable connected properly? It's because I wanted to get it off the wheel ramps because there was no oil pan on. And I had to wait for another pan and gasket. I realized you can run the car for a limited amount of time with no oil in the pan (even putting the old one on). But this is what I did when I made the first attempt to move it.

The car battery wasn't hooked up
Tried shifting the lever to N, and pressing the Shift release cable. That didn't work. I tried moving it around. Then finally decided to hook up the battery. The very first time the ebrake was off and it was in N. It wouldn't move when pushing it off the ramps. It was stuck. Then I tried starting to the car (with old oil pan on), it finally went in reverse, but it was rolling (because my driveway has a slight incline). You could hit the brakes and make it stop. I'm kind of confused, is it shifting properly? Why is it rolling?

 

Did you do any work on the transmission? Better yet, what work have you done on your car since the last time the transmission worked properly?

 

Everything worked properly until I changed the oil pan and gasket.
This just started 2 weeks after my first attempt on changing the oil and pan. This happened when I wanted to get it off the ramps. Because I had to order a new gasket and a new pan (pan was bad). So I could wait for it. When I finally got the new pan.

I know the shift cable was replaced in 2014 or 2015.

I think it might be something I notice the shift cable is doing something under the car. When he was changing it to R and D. I think it might be the shift cable adjuster. Like it might be that P is now R. And that D is N. I had a talk with the previous owner. Is there a shift cable adjuster? Anybody have any ideas on what to check next? I think I might have done something when I was under the car. When I took the transmission cover off.

The shift cable can go to N P 1 2. So I think that is working, it might be have to be readjusted.

Or it could be something under the shifter. This happened when I wanted to get it off the wheel ramps without starting the car. I was messing with the shift release cable... And it wouldn't go backwards. I'm just going through theories in my head. I'm not familiar with this.


Edit: it could be low on Transmission Fluid. I'm going to check that. But I need to know what was previously put in there. So I don't mix. I know I can order honda geninue transmission fluid on amazon. Maybe I should try to put a little in there of dextrone 3. But honda manual recommends Dextrone 2. Hmm. I wonder what the best method it is.

I'm not sure it's similar to that other thread were someone had a similar problem. If it was truly a problem were P was in R. Then the car wouldn't start... possibly. The shifter does shift in different positions. So if it was similar to his problem then it should go forward in one of the D P 1 or 2.

Google:

"1990 honda accord ex auto 4 door. gear selector cable adjustment?" and the topic will come up.

Update: I put the shift cable back in it's original position. And put the bracket on. It now works as it should. D goes forward R goes reverse and P doesn't roll back.
Update (for anyone reading this for oil pan installation tips): A torque wrench was not needed to install oil pan nuts and bolts. Just hand tight it with a extension. And then do about 1/4 turn to almost a 1/2 turn. The bolts and nuts don't seem to be coming off. I learned that from a spark plug guide. I applied the same concept here. If I'm wrong, they come out. But I'm not wrong enough so far. I got no oil leaks.