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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 08:23 PM
  #1  
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Default Brake Issues

Alright I have an issue regarding my brakes. When I am at a stoplight or just in drive for that matter, the brake pedal slowly starts to sink in towards the floor. The brake pads are only a year old and look like they have plenty of life left in them. I recently bled the brakes to try and fix the problem but it didn't solve anything. Wondering if there is a way to get my brakes "stiffer" if that is what you would call it. Thank in advance.
 
Old Oct 5, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Sounds like failing brake master cylinder. It probably has an internal seal leak, you won't see any external leak of fluid. When the cylinder piston seals go bad, the fluid bypasses the seals and goes back into the reservoir. One of the symptoms would be the brake pedal sinking on hot days.
 
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by redbull-1
Sounds like failing brake master cylinder.
X2 on this
 
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by redbull-1
Sounds like failing brake master cylinder. It probably has an internal seal leak, you won't see any external leak of fluid. When the cylinder piston seals go bad, the fluid bypasses the seals and goes back into the reservoir. One of the symptoms would be the brake pedal sinking on hot days.
Ya I thought so. Started reading more on it and that is what it sounds like. How hard is this to replace?
 
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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It isn't hard to R&R but either you have to bleed the master before putting it on or bleed the whole system if you install without bleeding it.
 
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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Should bleed the whole system anyway.
 
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
Should bleed the whole system anyway.
How do I bleed the whole system?
 
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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First, you can do what's called "bench-bleeding" the new master cylinder. Find some tubing that kinda fits the outlet holes, and rig it so it squirts back into the reservoir. Put some fluid in the reservoir and pump it. Fluid will pump around and fill the cylinder properly so now you don't have air bubbles inside the MC.

The MC will have fluid, so installing & hooking up the car's brake tubing can be messy. If you're lucky, you can do that without trapping any air at the tubing connections. But more likely you'll have a little air in there.

Bleeding the brakes is in this thread.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...g-brakes-3077/

If your car has ABS, you can bleed that system too.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...systems-31259/
 
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
First, you can do what's called "bench-bleeding" the new master cylinder. Find some tubing that kinda fits the outlet holes, and rig it so it squirts back into the reservoir. Put some fluid in the reservoir and pump it. Fluid will pump around and fill the cylinder properly so now you don't have air bubbles inside the MC.

The MC will have fluid, so installing & hooking up the car's brake tubing can be messy. If you're lucky, you can do that without trapping any air at the tubing connections. But more likely you'll have a little air in there.

Bleeding the brakes is in this thread.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...g-brakes-3077/

If your car has ABS, you can bleed that system too.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...systems-31259/
Do I have to bench bleed or can I just bleed the brakes again after I install the master cylinder?
 
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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Normally, if you don't bench-bleed the MC, you'll have troubles getting all the air out. It's possible (I've done it), but you might use a couple liters of fluid before all the air is out.

I replaced a MC before I knew anything about bench-bleeding. It was a royal PITA, I still had a soft pedal, and had to run back out to buy another liter of fluid. After getting a ton of fluid without any bubbles, I finally got a few air bubbles then it was OK.
 



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