I also had to cut inner race off hub with a die grinder and cut off wheel

 

Cutting off the inner race from the hub is pretty common.

You may just need to thread long bolts into the two open bolt holes and use a hammer. I'll link 2 videos below.

Another option would be to reconnect the knuckle to the upper/lower control arms. You can get a slide hammer/axle remover as a loaner tool. You may be able to bolt into the two holes on the bearing, or sometimes the tool has a piece that will fit behind the bearing. The risk is that you could damage the ball joints.

 

Hey All,

I want to thank you for the continued support. Your posts have really helped me to get the hub off and reassembled all good.

...unfortunately my efforts are not yet complete. When reassembling the brakes I found even with new pads, the caliper was able to fit without bleeding. After putting everything back together and starting the car, I found that the brake pedal went to the floor. After pumping the pedal many times, it seems there is a significant leak from the master cylinder. (Fluid appeared in the middle of the ground below the car) So I guess I will follow some tutorials to try to replace the master cylinder next!

thanks for reading

 

bad day eh?

 

Ok, so actually it is not the master cylinder but rather one of the lines that goes along the track from the front of the car to the back. I have no idea how to go about replacing that...

 

Have you found the spot on the line that is leaking?

 

Hi PAhonda.

Yeah, kind of. I tried to take off all of the bolts supporting the bracket to survey the damage, and upon wiping all four of the lines with a paper towel, everything exploded into gasoline and brake fluid everywhere! I have some buckets under there but it had been dripping/spraying for about 15 minutes now. I must assume that all of the lines are most likely compromised. I managed to see directly where the leaking hole was on the fuel line (on the bottom track below where the driver sits), for the others I would have to look again.

I think that, unfortunately, unless there is a safe way to splice new line into that track, this might be the end of this car for me Let me know if you have any suggestions and I will think on it for a day.

 

Ok, so you're going to scrap the car because it needs about 150 bucks worth of brake and fuel lines. I went thru this issue on my wife's 2000 Accord in June of 2015, because a brake line started leaking. Not knowing which 1 it was (there's 4 lines running thru there under the black plastic), and I didn't know which 1 was bad. But once I got the cover off, I saw ALL 4 had some really nasty rust on them, so I replaced all 4 lines. You can the brake lines with 3/16ths SAE steel lines and couplings, but you'll need to convert to Japanese end fittings. For the fuel line, buy a roll of 5/16ths steel line, and cut the tubes to the needed length. You'll have a left over piece about 5 foot long, but it's cheaper to buy it that way, rather than using individual lengths of tubing and adding couplers to it. You'll also need about 2 feet of 5/16ths rubber fuel injection hose and some clamps. Once you get it all back in place, some tie wraps will help keep the lines from rattling, and you can even zip tie the black plastic runner piece to the lines for added support. That's basically what I did, but then living in the salt belt, I see rust on a fairly regular basis. Plus, by replacing the lines, I know they're good for at least another 10 years. I think it took the 2 days working on it for about 5 hours or so, mainly because I tried to replicate the bends in the lines, and I didn't have a good tube bender. I should have just used a beer bottle, as that worked better for most of the bends that weren't tight to the fittings.
Honda does sell the lines too (pre bent), but they want way tooo much money for them(close to 500 bucks plus shipping or pick up at your dealer).
I also had to replace the lines on my 92 Geo Prizm, because they were rotted out as well, along with replacing lines on a buddy's GM truck. Like I said above, the salt belt is hard on those kind of parts.

 

I need pictures of this stuff!

 

It is kind of hard to show pictures of a leak, but I put some pictures of the area it is coming from below. It is still going this morning.

The Toecutter: I agree with you in general. If I had the time I would be all on fixing this, because the engine is still really nice and I like the car in general. Unfortunately I have to return to school soon (commuting), and no one else can take me so I need a quick solution.