Similar issues to this thread. https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...problem-66948/

The issues and diagnostics (and the unfortunate reality of NOT positioning my blend door and DEFINITELY needing to replace, even though it wasn't issue....) Are 100% identical to mine.

2009 Accord Ex-L - here's my story I'm throwing in forums:7 month pregnant missus...the a/c not working is gonna be the end of her (me)



2009 honda accord ex-l, dual climate



Heat blows just fine, both sides.



A/c, BOTH sides are blowing too hot, but passenger is slightly cooler. (Passenger is barely cooler than ambient, but is)



ive eliminated: fuse(s), compressor/clutch, and done a guage test, readings below. I want to say ive eliminated blend door, but upon removing it i have busted it up pretty good, im waiting on a newer one to just replace (whoops). But - manually moving the actual slider proved the door itself properly functional (i think).



Guages: Static readings showed nearly identical (108 h, 107L). Dynamic readings at first showed 130H, 14L. This lead me to think r134 was off. Added roughly 4 oz and then dynamic read 162H, 21 L. But, i did not get any better results out of vents.



I happened to notice a radiator leak, on driver side/near(ish) to the drier. There is roughly .5 inch between radiator and condenser, so hard to know, but i have a suspicion slowly leaking coolant has GUNKED my condenser. I have cleaned it a couple times and it DID slightly inprove/lower temps, but not by much.



My current remaining supicions are

a clogged condenser. Or

Still potentially a r134 issue



Is there theory to the radiator leak causing condenser cloggage?



I have also not yet done a vacuum test, but my static readings made me look elsewhere/assume no leak in system (cannot locate indication of one on lines at all either)



ANY help is appreciated! Thank you in advance

 

Moved your post to a new thread and referenced the original thread to make things less confusing.

The static pressure will almost always be close to the outside temperature unless the system is 100% discharged. So you will read approximately 100 psi if the outside temp is around 100 °F. I've had this happen even when the system basically has no charge.

I'd start off by verifying the a/c clutch is spinning with the compressor pulley at all times with the engine running and a/c turned on. Also make sure both radiator fans are running when you have the a/c turned on.

Cleaning any debris on the condenser is a good idea, but I don't think this is your issue based off of your pressures.

IMO, you are low on R-134a based on your high and low pressure readings and have a leak you need to repair. The alternative is if the low pressure line (cold) line is extremely frosted, then you have a clog in one of the lines. Look at the cold line to see if you are getting ice buildup on the line. Odds are you have leak in the system.

Your car takes 14-16 oz total of R-134a. Please verify the amount. You should have a sticker in your engine bay with the amt needed for your car. The proper way to do this is have a shop discharge the system. Then pickup a ~14 oz can with dye and charge the system. You may only find a 12oz can at the parts store, and this will work. Evacuating the system and adding a known amount of R-134a will ensure you don't overcharge the system. Run the system and use a uv light to find the dye and the leak.

An alternative way is to pickup a can of R134A with dye and just charge the system while monitoring the pressure. On a fully charged system, the high side pressure will be about 3x the outside air temp, and the low side will be about 1/2 the outside air temp. These values are dependent on humidity. On a 100 degree day, the high pressure should be around 300 and the low pressure around 50. I'd probably charge to values about 20% lower just to avoid overcharging the system when trying to find a leak.

I can give you more accurate numbers if you let me know your outside air temp and relative humidity.