My wife is the only one it did it to so far. Hasn't did it to me yet. Found a fault code (16-01) waiting for a new speed sensor from rockauto. I've only blown it off with compressed air so not a proper fix. Fault Code has been cleared but still suspect it will come back before the new part gets installed. waiting on parts.

 

I'm not seeing 16-01 as a code in my shop manual. Can you give a description that came with that code?

 

Sounds like you don't have a very good shop manual LOL just having fun, Just google it, found a few definitions my self like 16-01 = "Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor". My friends code reader or code scanner or what ever you want to call it probably cost him in the neighborhood of up to $5,000 or so, that's where the code 16-01 came from.

 

It sounds like you don't have a very good mechanic friend. And his $5000 code scanner is useless if he can't read it - and don't say that you've figured it out, because you haven't. You have a guess as to what it is. I found the forum where you saw that answer. Between the very helpful suggestions/advice from this thread, your driveaccord thread, and google searches, your "mechanic friend" + $50 in parts is plenty to start working on it. I don't know what more you could ask for. I know this sounds like I'm being a butt about it, but it comes across like you're ungrateful for the honest help you're getting.

As said before, you shouldn't be driving this thing other than to test the work you've done. It sounds extremely dangerous. According to you, you have it under control - which I'm glad to hear. But you don't know if this "error" will cause some other problem that you aren't expecting when on the road. If you've stopped driving, then ignore this suggestion. But from your posts and demeanor, my assumption is that you think you have it under control. Take care of it. I hope you're not on the road where I, or my wife and child live.

 

My wife's 00 Accord had the ABS light was on. It basically wouldn't function correctly, but would stop the car. She took it over to our local Honda dealer who said it was a bad sensor. The tech there was worried that she'd keep bring in the car for repairs (it's old and has high miles), but she told them I'd fix it IF I knew what the problem was, since I can't read those codes. I replaced the sensor, and cleared the code. My scanner wouldn't read ABS codes, or SRS codes (both the ABS and SRS lights were on when we bought it), so it had to go to the dealer for code reading. Turned out the SRS light was a bad sensor in the seat belt, and they replaced it for free, since it had never been done before.

However, I'm surprised your friends $5K scanner can't read the engine codes and tell you why the idle speed keeps changing. Mine does, as it'll kick out a code, and having a FSM, I can look up the problem and find out how to fix it.

 

The TB has no E wire it is cable controlled not even a $5K code reader reads mechanical problems IIR

 

Then you have a big problem on your hands. Take it to a professional. It gave you an error code. And you're not giving nearly enough info to get helpful advice on what the problem is.

To anyone who might be reading in this in the future - this is an example of a problem that needs professional help by a Honda technician. When your friend who has a $5000 reader and is a qualified mechanic can't even diagnose, then you need to bite the bullet and take it in to a good shop that can work on your specific car. Sometimes it's a slippery slope with dealerships/shops, and I'm all for working on your car yourself, but sometimes you need a second opinion from someone who can take a look at it, and has experience with your cars manufacturer.

Sorry for your troubles babcock9r.

 

Yeah, with the limited amount of info, it's hard to make a diagnosis. I've had some weird issues pop up before on these cars, and I was almost ready to tow it to the dealership, but my pride told me to hold off.
I did eventually find my problem, but this was after I kicked around several ideas with the members of this forum. It ended up taking me 6 weeks before I found and fixed my issue, and had spent close to 300 in parts I probably didn't need, but replaced anyway.
In my case, it turned out I wasn't getting enough power to the injector resistor block (needed 12V but only had 4V to it on my 97 Accord). It would run on starter fluid, but only as long as you kept spraying it. I installed a new fuel pump, and verified I had power to it. I had replaced the ECU, as the FSM suggested that. I basically worked thru all of the items in the FSM to no avail. I even checked the pin outs of the ECU to make sure everything was kosher. When you have no codes present or pending, it makes things even harder to fix.

 

Here is my original thread started in another forum (the first one/forum) that at least one of you here was involved in but like some of you have tended to lean towards a braking problem pushing aside the speeding up problem. Both problems can be solved (at the moment) by turning the ignition off and coasting to a stop, yes its not a real fix but it will get the car from accelerating and come to a stop.

So here is the thread that started it off a while ago. I think all of the information all you are seeking is here below. THIS THREAD IS A CUT N COPY DEAL. I didn't take the time to re-type it out for here.

 

This sounds more like a throttle cable catching, or something causing the throttle not to close (having to stomp on it 10 times or more to clear it). Check the cable routing, and make sure there are no kinks in it. Then check the TB and make sure everything is free and clear to navigate (no rough spots). Check it over real good, because with the amount of miles on it, it could have a worn out TB, where the wear is in the shaft area.
I hope this helps.