Car stall after warm up. Start again only after a few mins
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 3
Car stall after warm up. Start again only after a few mins
Happened randomly to me twice and my mechanic could not figure out what is wrong.
After the engine stalls, I try to start, it cranks but engine won't fire. Dashboard lights are on and look normal. I wait a bit and the engine almost starts. Then wait a few more minutes and the engine starts without problem.
After the engine restarts, it runs strong, with no apparent loss of power. I try full throttle on a highway, it revs to redline without issue. Drive like normal.
My mechanic check the fuel pressure and it is within spec. No code. No engine misfire.
Ignition coil, spark plugs have been changed a year ago.
It is a 2002 Honda Accord V6 with 150k miles on it.
After the engine stalls, I try to start, it cranks but engine won't fire. Dashboard lights are on and look normal. I wait a bit and the engine almost starts. Then wait a few more minutes and the engine starts without problem.
After the engine restarts, it runs strong, with no apparent loss of power. I try full throttle on a highway, it revs to redline without issue. Drive like normal.
My mechanic check the fuel pressure and it is within spec. No code. No engine misfire.
Ignition coil, spark plugs have been changed a year ago.
It is a 2002 Honda Accord V6 with 150k miles on it.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,331
From: Houston, TX
This is tough, because you'll need to test when the car is stalling/not starting. Several items can cause the car to stall out but lack of spark or lack of fuel are probably at the top of the list. I would avoid throwing parts at the problem, because you can have a new part that is bad out of the box.
At minimum, I'd stop by a parts store and have them scan for codes. Or you can scan for codes if you have a scanner. Let us know if you have a scanner that can read live data as that could help as well. Post any codes on here and that can give you a direction for testing.
When the car acts up again, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Listen carefully for the fuel pump to turn on for about 2 seconds while the check engine light does the bulb check. Turn off the radio, blower, and listen carefully for the humming/whirling sound from the back seat. Try this currently with the car working properly to know that sound. Let us know if it present when the car won't start.
At minimum, I'd stop by a parts store and have them scan for codes. Or you can scan for codes if you have a scanner. Let us know if you have a scanner that can read live data as that could help as well. Post any codes on here and that can give you a direction for testing.
When the car acts up again, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Listen carefully for the fuel pump to turn on for about 2 seconds while the check engine light does the bulb check. Turn off the radio, blower, and listen carefully for the humming/whirling sound from the back seat. Try this currently with the car working properly to know that sound. Let us know if it present when the car won't start.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 3
This is tough, because you'll need to test when the car is stalling/not starting. Several items can cause the car to stall out but lack of spark or lack of fuel are probably at the top of the list. I would avoid throwing parts at the problem, because you can have a new part that is bad out of the box.
At minimum, I'd stop by a parts store and have them scan for codes. Or you can scan for codes if you have a scanner. Let us know if you have a scanner that can read live data as that could help as well. Post any codes on here and that can give you a direction for testing.
When the car acts up again, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Listen carefully for the fuel pump to turn on for about 2 seconds while the check engine light does the bulb check. Turn off the radio, blower, and listen carefully for the humming/whirling sound from the back seat. Try this currently with the car working properly to know that sound. Let us know if it present when the car won't start.
At minimum, I'd stop by a parts store and have them scan for codes. Or you can scan for codes if you have a scanner. Let us know if you have a scanner that can read live data as that could help as well. Post any codes on here and that can give you a direction for testing.
When the car acts up again, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Listen carefully for the fuel pump to turn on for about 2 seconds while the check engine light does the bulb check. Turn off the radio, blower, and listen carefully for the humming/whirling sound from the back seat. Try this currently with the car working properly to know that sound. Let us know if it present when the car won't start.
I have a scanner that there were no code stored in both situations.
It can also read live data. What data should I read while it is dying?
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,331
From: Houston, TX
Was there a certain rpm where your car stalled? Were you low on gas or did you just fill up the gas tank when this problem started? Any other work done to the car or issues with the car before this happened?
I'd write down baseline values of these readings when the car is warmed up and working properly at idle and at ~2000 rpm. Then when the car won't start, you can look at the same sensors to see if something is way off. This could help identify what is happening.
You may also want to record on your phone how your gauge cluster behaves when you turn the key to the II position, then wait for the check engine light to do the bulb check, then turn the key to start the car.
Long term fuel trim for bank 1 and bank 2
Short term fuel trim for bank 1 and bank 2
Mass air flow sensor (If you have one)
MAP sensor
Intake air temperature
Cam shaft signal
Crank shaft signal
EGR valve position
I'd write down baseline values of these readings when the car is warmed up and working properly at idle and at ~2000 rpm. Then when the car won't start, you can look at the same sensors to see if something is way off. This could help identify what is happening.
You may also want to record on your phone how your gauge cluster behaves when you turn the key to the II position, then wait for the check engine light to do the bulb check, then turn the key to start the car.
Long term fuel trim for bank 1 and bank 2
Short term fuel trim for bank 1 and bank 2
Mass air flow sensor (If you have one)
MAP sensor
Intake air temperature
Cam shaft signal
Crank shaft signal
EGR valve position
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