The car should say LX/DX/or EX on the back of the car.

Has your car ever had a security/alarm system installed? That can cause all kinds of strange problems. You should remove all components if one was ever installed.

A severely worn out key might cause some problem. You should try to use a key that is better shape than your original key.

The service connector is under the glove box. You can try to short the service connector and count any ECU codes.

As for the ECU getting power, Pin D1 of the ECU connector should have 12V when the key is turned to the II position. The wire color is wht/grn. The D-connector has 22 possible wires going to it.

 

Ok I'll Try Your suggestions,TY Rick

 

Have you had any luck finding out the problem?

 

Haven't had any time yet, But my wagon doesn't have the model letters on back hatch, I did take a look. Hope to look at it on the weekend and then I'll be back on here. Is there only one power feed to the ecm?

 

Checked the power @ the computer, wht-yellow wire according to sun micro program, and every other wire on the 22 hole connector @efi computer.No power at all. checked fuse in the engine compartment... fuse is fine?? Does this power source have any connection with the fuel pump relay? Mine still doesn't click, But fuel pump did work when relay was hotwired to test.

 

I would suggest that you test for power to the Distributor.......Black/yellow wire at the connector.
You can drop off the steering column shroud to test for ignition switch output.

 

yes, I have verified power to the distibuter. My main computer is not getting power,and my fuel pump relay, does not trip at anytime. Any more thoughts. I'm getting ready sell this thing for parts.

 

The main relay is a combination of 2 relays together in one case. One relay supplies power to the ECU & some sensors. Other relay supplies power to the fuel pump.

Normal way to fail is the fuel pump portion quits working. But maybe YOUR has failed altogether.

You said you tested by jumpering the fuel pump relay. Did you remove the relay & jumper the terminal to close the fuel pump circuit? You also have to jumper another set of terminals to close the other circuit & provide power to the ECU.

The ignition switch provides power directly to the distributor, so that would have power without a main relay. But there would be no trigger signal (from the ECU) to tell the coil to fire.

So a main relay thats completely failed seems to fit. Not the normal failure of the fuel pump circuit only.

 

I tested the relay in another honda (1997 model) Ran the car fine. So both parts of my relay are good. I have no power to the computer and no ground to the fuel pump side of the relay. I grounded the fuel pump side of the relay, and the fuel pump runs. I have power at the distibuter, so I believe that the fuel pulse signal is absent due to the computer not getting power. Although the appropriate fuse has power. It really has me stumped and I need it moved soon. Thanks for any suggestions/ Help.

 

When you ground the fuel pump side of the relay does the car run? Or just the fuel pump?

Broken or disconnected wires in the harness? Look for ground wire bundles that are loose/dirty/corroded. One popular one to go bad is located at the thermostat housing. I dont know where the ground wire bundles are located under the dashboard for your year...

The ECUshould have several ground points. If you find one good one, doesnt mean theyre all good.

Youre getting to the point where youve checked most ofthe easy stuff. Verifying that every wire in the harness is connected properly is a real PITA. Did you DL the manual? Got the wiring drawing for allthe ECU connections?