Part I:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...lp-guys-57900/

Now Part 2!
The issue now is that it won't even start. @4:13 for the problem

TL/DR
Car won't crank/start after it just starting less than 5 minutes ago. Car blacks out on position II
-DMM reads 12.6v.
- I cleaned the terminal and
- cleaned the dirty distributor cap (white stuff)
- jumped the car still dies after position II.
-I do hear a click from the main relay.
- all accesories work in position one but not II.
- new plugs and wires.
-alarm sounds faint
- friend did jump my car but no luck. blacks out in pos II

What can be the problem.

I'll be using a time just an indication.

@4:00pm
Car starts fine.

@4:02
Going in reverse, the car starts to sputter so to speak as it moves. then shortly dies.
I then attempt to start it. The car cranks and wants to start but does not. At this point i pushed the car back to my driveway and charged it. After a few dead tries, I started the car with the battery starter option. It started ONLY if I have the clutch down and fired it up. However, the second I turned the car off it was done. It won't crank anymore. Itook the dizzy cap out and found out that the terminals were coated with white corrosion. I then cleaned then off and sanded it down a little.

@4:10
I tried to start it again and now the car only clicks *clicking as if low bat*

@4:13
I try again after cleaning the terminal and posts. At this point, the car lights, radio and anything that will turn on when the car is in position one will work. However, the second I put it in position II the car dies completely, the lights & radio go out and all I see is my faint dash light. I can't tell if my fuel pump even works. I do hear a click from the relay which is located in front of the front passenger.



@4:30
At this point i called a friend to come jump the car. It's the same deal, the car accesories, lights and radio will turn on. HOWEVER, the moment you turn the key in POSITION II it dies. It blacks out everything and i'll only see a faint light from my dash.

He noticed that when the car door is open and the lights are on, the second he presses the brake light, the whole car loses power. When I hardwire a positive to the window harness to turn the window up, it didn't black out like it did when he pressed the brake pedal.

The battery reads 12.6v. My DMM has a very low tolerance as i've tested it a few days ago via a voltage regulator from work. the readings were the same. We also noticed that my alarm was VERY faint making us think it's the battery. BUT we just jumped the car and it didnkt start.

My question now is what would be causing it?


FIXED!!

This was it. BAD BATTERY CABLES!! So i was about to give up until the car clicked and cranked abruptly. At this point, it led me to believe it's not the battery as the electrical was playing tricks. So i ended up checking the negative/ground cable and to my surprise, its hanging in my a 2-3 strands.

I decided to rip off the ramaing 2-3 strands and just clamped the ground to a random spot in the engine bay while i go drove the car to the nearest auto store to buy a battery cable..

Thanks again all for the time and support!

 

Your situation is what I have seen with dirty or bad battery cables. You should also load test the battery. Most auto parts stores should have a load tester. It simulates position two how well the battery holds up to the load of the starter.

 

Sounds like bad batt or weak connections. Failing that is take a good long look at the switch. It should only crank with the clutch in should be a clutch safety switch worth a look too.

 

A faulty alarm can cause all kinds of strange problems. I would probably remove the alarm from my car and make it stock.

Can you tell us some wire colors that were spliced that feed into the alarm control unit?

 

I missed the aftermarket alarm in the post. That would be my third choice to look at.

 

I kinda lumped the alarm in with weak battery. Could be if it's not getting enough juice, depending on the alarm, it may disable the car.

 

Ill get the battery checked. just don't have the time at the moment.

Yes it should only crank with the clutch in.
- The switch and fuse are okay

I did the alarm myself as a final project for school. All wires are soldered. and have had it for 4 years.

There's no way it can be the alarm as i have had it for so long with the same battery. The problem i see is that it's not getting enough juice as you've said because of the weak sound it's making. it kinda sounds like a dying battery.

 

I've never had a car so sensitive to the battery connections as my accord. :dunno: but a load test is what I'd do next.

 

This was it. BAD BATTERY CABLES!! So i was about to give up until the car clicked and cranked abruptly. At this point, it led me to believe it's not the battery as the electrical was playing tricks. So i ended up checking the negative/ground cable and to my surprise, its hanging in my a 2-3 strands.

I decided to rip off the ramaing 2-3 strands and just clamped the ground to a random spot in the engine bay while i go drove the car to the nearest auto store to buy a battery cable..

Thanks again all for the time and support!

 

I am glad you sorted it out. You gave a lot of information in your post and I had to think about it for awhile to get to what was going on. I appreciate you came back and let us know the results.