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change "donut" exhaust gasket

Old Dec 13, 2014 | 11:36 AM
  #21  
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Again, as long as it is post cat....the only thing to worry about is what TX brought up. Don't let the engine run while sitting still for too long.

All of this is just my personal opinion.
 
Old Dec 13, 2014 | 11:45 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by poorman212
Again, as long as it is post cat....the only thing to worry about is what TX brought up. Don't let the engine run while sitting still for too long.
Yes what TX brought up is a legitimate concern for sure, and I'll be wary of letting the engine run sitting still for too long. Otherwise then I've decided not to worry much about it for now. "Prioritizing" today. thanks poorman and TX
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 10:38 AM
  #23  
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After actual inspection of the situation I discovered the exhaust leak is because of holes rusted through the exhaust pipe(s) in a couple locations, one in the area just around/behind where the exhaust hanger part number 8531 is shown in this diagram:

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The other rusted area is on the other long pipe, part #68336 in the diagram above, in the area of its hanger.

I noticed the rear rusted pipe on my car is part of a (factory) welded "assembly" along with the muffler (as shown in the diagram). So it seems I have a couple of options in regard to replacement if I buy parts through my local auto parts store. I could either get the individual parts (muffler $81.00, pipe $35.99, gasket $2.99, and clamp $1.79) for a total of $122.76, or I could get another welded assembly (assembly $167.99 plus $2.99 for another gasket) for a total of $170.98. If I went the individual parts route (muffler and pipe separate) I could save $48.22. Is the $48.22 savings worth the extra trouble it might take to replace the muffler and pipe separately instead of going the "welded assembly" replacement route? Any opinions/comments appreciated about that.

In regard to the other rusted pipe behind the catalyic converter, a replacement sells for $163.99. Also, I noticed the top heat shield part of the catalytic converter (as shown in the following picture) is rusted away really bad too. Hard to say whether the cat itself is rusted or in otherwise bad condition. I do know the cat is original and there are 218,117.3 miles on it. So my additional question too is whether it's probably time to replace that cat too, or not necessarily? That would be another $210 for that if I did. I did notice in the maintenance schedule in the owners manual that it says at 60,000 miles I should (have) "inspected" the catalytic converter heat shield, but doesn't mention anything about replacing the cat itself (maintenance schedule doesn't go beyond 90,000 miles). And there is no such thing as just replacing the heat shield by itself because it's part of the cat.

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Last edited by sgull; Dec 26, 2014 at 12:51 PM. Reason: forgot to add picture
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #24  
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I had a pesky leak on my accord a while back, found it was at the first bend after the cat, found a replacement at mylocal pick and pull, from cat back with a flowmaster 40 series already off laying on the ground, $25 got the whole piece, took it to 3 Star Muffler in Tyler tx, and $40 for the labor, problem solved. Good luck.
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 08:03 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the reply/info woody31. At my location (relatively remote small SE Alaskan community) we have no such thing as pick and pull or any such salvage type sources for automobiles. Just the way it is.
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #26  
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Man that is sad, I would have withdrawal pains from no junkyard crawling, I go at least 2x a month, and a few times a yr they have a all you can carry for $50 and a half price sale, I hope you get it fixed and on the cheap, good luck,,have fun and be safe.
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 08:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by woody31
Man that is sad,
Yeah. If I wanna fix it up right might cost close to 200 for parts I figure. Hope I don't need a new cat. Then I'd be talking 400+ bucks total. Waiting for replies/comments in that regard, new cat probably required or not. thanks again man
 
Old Dec 27, 2014 | 07:20 AM
  #28  
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I've gone both ways on the pipe/muffler question on some of my old 3rd gen's. So for the ~$48, I'd go with the pieces.

The cat should be fine. I would look to see if you can fashion something for the shield. I think some places use to carry replacement shields. If the shield is still somewhat there and just the mounting has come loose, some have used large hose clamps - or other types of clamps - to secure it back to the cat. Usually doing this to keep it from rattling.

Since all of this is post cat - time is on your side. If you/she can handle the noise, you can do this when you want.
 
Old Dec 27, 2014 | 08:55 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by poorman212
Since all of this is post cat - time is on your side. If you/she can handle the noise, you can do this when you want.
Yeah we can handle the noise, which really isn't bad at all yet. Kind of just really bugs me though seeing the exhaust leak from underneath the car underneath the cabin while car is warming up parked/idling . That "B" or "long" pipe (the one with the resonator I guess it is) seems rather spendy, and actually since time is on my side will probably go ahead now and spend some of that time trying to track down a better "deal"/option on cat-back replacement for the car. Won't consider replacing the cat if it's just not necessary. thanks poorman212
 
Old Dec 27, 2014 | 11:06 AM
  #30  
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Again, leave the cat. If the heat shield is loose and not totally eaten away there are large clamps you can get to hold it together to keep it from making noise. If it is loose and not making a noise....forget about it until you start to hear a "metal on metal" rattle on cold start ups.

Yes, I would look around and see if you can find a deal or better deal on the parts. Shipping bulky items might be an issue ($'s) but you have time to check all of that out.
 

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