Clock not working
#1
Clock not working
I have a 98 Accord with the clock not working. I have perused many of the comments on this website (and others) and see that it's a common problem for both the clock and the radio to not work. It's just my clock that's not working; my radio is working just fine. Additionally, I have seen a lot of posts regarding the light being burnt out. While my light is burnt out, the numbers also do not display.
I was able to tinker with my father-in-law's clock (he has a 98 Accord as well).
Here is what I have found troubleshooting wise:
His clock works in his car, but does not work in my car.
My clock works in his car, but does not work in my car.
I have replaced the #9 fuse in the driver's side fuse panel and it did not fix the issue.
I am at a loss as to what may be the issue. Please advise.
I was able to tinker with my father-in-law's clock (he has a 98 Accord as well).
Here is what I have found troubleshooting wise:
His clock works in his car, but does not work in my car.
My clock works in his car, but does not work in my car.
I have replaced the #9 fuse in the driver's side fuse panel and it did not fix the issue.
I am at a loss as to what may be the issue. Please advise.
#2
The radio doesn't really have anything to do with the clock.
If you have a multimeter/voltmeter:
1. Disconnect the 5P harness connector for the clock.
2. With the meter's red lead touching pin 1 (Yellow wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. Is there power/voltage (+) at pin 1 with the ignition on?
3. With the meter's red lead touching pin 2 (Wht/Yel wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. There should be power/voltage at pin 2 at all times. Wht/Yel is a wire with white insulation and a yellow stripe.
4. If there was power/voltage (+) at both pin 1 and 2 in the step #1 and 2, then repeat step 1 and 2; but, this time touch the meter's black lead to pin 5 (Blk wire). Is there still a power/voltage reading on the meter?
If you have a multimeter/voltmeter:
1. Disconnect the 5P harness connector for the clock.
2. With the meter's red lead touching pin 1 (Yellow wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. Is there power/voltage (+) at pin 1 with the ignition on?
3. With the meter's red lead touching pin 2 (Wht/Yel wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. There should be power/voltage at pin 2 at all times. Wht/Yel is a wire with white insulation and a yellow stripe.
4. If there was power/voltage (+) at both pin 1 and 2 in the step #1 and 2, then repeat step 1 and 2; but, this time touch the meter's black lead to pin 5 (Blk wire). Is there still a power/voltage reading on the meter?
#3
Subaru's in recent years were afflicted w/ many clock failures. They had a simple cause. Poor solder jts on tiny "surface mount" components was the problem. Fortunately they could be re-soldered quite easily, although manipulating the tiny components can be tricky.
Oh no my clock doesn't work - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
I suspect Honda clocks are similar and might suffer same problem.
good luck
Oh no my clock doesn't work - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
I suspect Honda clocks are similar and might suffer same problem.
good luck
Last edited by TexasHonda; 01-03-2014 at 11:49 AM.
#4
The radio doesn't really have anything to do with the clock.
If you have a multimeter/voltmeter:
1. Disconnect the 5P harness connector for the clock.
2. With the meter's red lead touching pin 1 (Yellow wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. Is there power/voltage (+) at pin 1 with the ignition on?
3. With the meter's red lead touching pin 2 (Wht/Yel wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. There should be power/voltage at pin 2 at all times. Wht/Yel is a wire with white insulation and a yellow stripe.
4. If there was power/voltage (+) at both pin 1 and 2 in the step #1 and 2, then repeat step 1 and 2; but, this time touch the meter's black lead to pin 5 (Blk wire). Is there still a power/voltage reading on the meter?
If you have a multimeter/voltmeter:
1. Disconnect the 5P harness connector for the clock.
2. With the meter's red lead touching pin 1 (Yellow wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. Is there power/voltage (+) at pin 1 with the ignition on?
3. With the meter's red lead touching pin 2 (Wht/Yel wire) and meter's black lead touching body ground. There should be power/voltage at pin 2 at all times. Wht/Yel is a wire with white insulation and a yellow stripe.
4. If there was power/voltage (+) at both pin 1 and 2 in the step #1 and 2, then repeat step 1 and 2; but, this time touch the meter's black lead to pin 5 (Blk wire). Is there still a power/voltage reading on the meter?
#5
Since you stated your Dad's working clock (in his car) doesn't work in your car, it sounds more like a wiring issue in your car. The tests I wrote above are trying to narrow which wire it may be; so, do each step I stated and report back the results for each step.
It probably wouldn't be an issue with the harness connector if the wires check out, as you would be testing the cavity pins at the harness connector. Do the tests and we'll go from there to narrow down the issue. In addition, the wires are not soldered at the harness connector, they are clamped to the terminal pins.
Even a cheap voltmeter will work.
It probably wouldn't be an issue with the harness connector if the wires check out, as you would be testing the cavity pins at the harness connector. Do the tests and we'll go from there to narrow down the issue. In addition, the wires are not soldered at the harness connector, they are clamped to the terminal pins.
Even a cheap voltmeter will work.
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