The slave cylinder arrived today. Pardon my ignorance, but the push rod end of the cylinder (the end with the rubber "accordion" boot on it) wobbles freely in every dirction? Is this normal? If not I don't want to install a defective part? Thank you

 

That is normal.

 

PAhonda you have been very helpful, I appreciate it. I will follow through and report back after installation of parts.

 

Just received the clutch master cylinder.

Can anyone confirm confirm that the small packet of "pink grease" that came with the master cylinder is for the cup of the MC? The fine print on the tiny packet reads: "cup of master cylinder". No idea where on the MC cup it should be applied. If not, where should this grease be used?

Also, I've read that "during bleed procedure slave cylinder should be fully compressed" Is this true? If so, please read on. I plan on removing the complete hydraulic system as a whole from the vehicle (including clutch master and slave cylinders). I then plan on "bench" bleeding the entire renovated system before reinstalling the hydraulic system into the vehicle as a whole. I know that some new slave cylinders come from the factory with a piece of plastic that holds the slave cylinder pushrod compressed and in place, but the Adler cylinder doesn't have this temporary piece of plastic. Should I use c clamp (for example) to keep the slave cylinder rod compressed while bench bleeding the whole system out of the car? I plan on reverse bleeding from bottom to top using a hand pump to slowly fill from bottom to top (from slave cylinder to master cylinder) with DOT 3.

 

A clamp will work to hold the slave cylinder in place. A zip-tie may be needed during the install if the clamp is in the way and prevents bolting down the slave cylinder. I think reverse bleeding at the end will get all air out of the lines. Normal gravity bleeding will also work. The most helpful part is bench bleeding the master cylinder to get air out and will make the line bleeding much quicker.

I would use that pink grease on the rod going through the master cylinder and the inside hole and outside rim of the rubber seal that sandwiches between the the master cylinder and firewall. I don't see any use for the grease on the reservoir unless you put a dab on the hose barb to help install the rubber hose.

 

Removed clutch hydraulic system from vehicle as a complete unit and then removed old slave and master cylinders from the lines. Cleaned the inside of the hydraulic lines with brake cleaner and used compressed air to dry inside of lines. Installed new master and slave cylinders on the hydraulic lines. Then gravity bled the clutch hydraulic system while still out of the vehicle. Installed the hydraulic system. Check the clutch pedal movement, seemed good. Took the vehicle for test drive and all is good. There was no need for further bleeding after installing into vehicle.

 

Does anyone know if this generation has a pin bushing in the clutch pedal as shown in the following short video? If so, should it be replaced occasionally?

 

Looks like the 04 accord has that bushing. You can find the part on an oem parts site like hondapartsnow.com.

 

When replacing the clutch master cylinder, consider replacing the clutch pedal bushing (#19 in diagram on the left) if it is worn or missing. It is white plastic (guessing it contains Teflon)