So i bought my son a 2000 Accord LX 230K miles about 6 months ago. He's driven it sporadically over that time. Nothing really consistent. (he walks to both work, and school) The other day I drove it out down the highway just to drive it some and see how it does. I was driving about 20 minutes (20 miles or so). Stopped at a gas station, when I started it back up CEL was on, as I started to drive acceleration was very slow, It very slowly built up speed. Went straight home ran the codes, got p0700 and p1753. I know p0700 is just a generic tranny code. and p1753 is showing as the torque converter clutch solenoid. It's like it's starting out in 3rd or 4th gears. If I manually shift through the gears it'll shift fin, and after sitting over night it'll shift regularly at first. No hard shifting or clunking. So I know there are threads on this, but I cannot seem to find a definitive answer if I'm missing it I apologize. Is it worth changing the solenoid out? Keeping in mind the car has been driven maybe 1000 miles in the last 6 months?

Oh I don't know if the D4 light is flashing or not it is burned out

 

The D4 light flashing means you have transmission codes, so by reading the codes you got your the information you need. A p1753 is a problem with the torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit. The problem can be the valve, the wiring, or the PCM. The valve works by getting power from the PCM to open or close the valve. I think the valve is grounded through the transmission housing and there is not ground wire, but I am not 100% sure on the 98-02 accords.

Definitely inspect the wiring to see any obvious damage. The valve should click if you supply 12V to where the yellow wire connects to the valve. A clicking valve doesn't guarantee the valve is working properly. The valve could be clogged with debris and preventing it from working. Some automatic transmissions have a screen as part of the gasket that can get clogged too. I don't want to recommend changing the valve and not have it fix your problem.

The 98-02 accords were notoriously bad for transmission failures, especially on the V6 transmissions. The clutch material wears out and can clog passages damage the transmission. I would recommend draining the transmission fluid and refilling with fresh fluid. At minimum, drain the fluid and inspect the fluid for metal/sparkly flakes or a burnt smell.

 

Ok thank you, sorry for my slow reply busy day yesterday. I pulled the valve solenoid and checked it out, screen was slightly dirty, so I cleaned it off and reapplied it. Wiring is all good and by applying 12V I can hear the clicking. The fluid is also in good shape no metal flakes that I could see and doesn't smell burnt. I just have a generic code reader, so I borrowed a friends high dollar scanner computer and went through and read and cleared the codes, I also reset the PCM when I did this. Something my code reader wouldn't do I don't think. So far so good and it has been two days with regular driving. If it comes back I'll probably go ahead and try changing the solenoid out.

Something that I've thought of though, and I wish I had paid more attention now, but when we bought it, it was like the car was in limp mode and in trying to trace all that down I noticed the computer had two plug in that were exactly the same and one of the plugs was plugged into the wrong spot, once I switched it around no more ,limp mode. Is it a realistic possibility that this could have shorted the computer causing this issue?

 

The PCM could be the culprit. Wait and see what codes return.

Since the plugs were switched, someone was previously in there messing with the PCM.h