Ok well I got my splices fixed and did the diagnostic procedure you outlined. According to the diagram #15 is on the top radiator hose front of motor and #14 is rear of engine thermo housing.

#1 I jumped 14 key off and both fans came on when nothing should have happened.
I continued to do the other steps even though the first step gave a different result than it should have.
#2 I jumped 15 key off fans continued to run because of step #1. If I disconnected the 14 jumper then fans turn off.
#3 With all wires jumped I turned key on and both fans turned off when both fans should have been running.
#4 couldnt really do since the fans werent on in step 3 buit disconnected 14 and fans stayed off.
#5 with 14 disconnected keyed off no fans started when it says one fan should start
#6 couldnt do since fans were already off


So im pretty confused now with 14 on the thermo housing making both fans come on with the key off when I thought its supposed to be #15 front of motor that is responsible for turning on the fans when the key is off. So im not really sure what to do next.
And just to check #14 to the thermo housing is a green connector with a gren/wht and a black wire. and #15 at the top hose frt of motor is a grey connector w/ grn/wht and grn/yllw wires

 

Theres's something called a "fan timer unit" which seems to be messed up. Not sure where it's located, under the dashboard somewhere. Hope someone with a 4th-gen car will chime in. Maybe there's more "creative" wiring around that thing?

If the whole fan-control wiring has been messed with, I can only guess the motive or method or what's actually been done. Maybe all that other stuff was an attempt to fix things, when a bad fan timer was the REAL problem.

Go to the DIY section - find a sticky thread about on-line manuals & get one for 90-91-92 or thereabouts. I don't know wire colors for 1991.

 

I have a feeling youre right and the fan timer unit is bad which is why the fans are doing the wrong thing when theyre jumped. It seems like the creative wiring doesnt extend into the harnesses or anything just like they tried resplicing things to see if they could make it work. Anyways I found this in a manual to test the coolant temp sensor # 14 and 15 on the diagram. Its testing for resistance. It says to measure resistance between the two terminals and compare it to the chart however I dont see any resistance numbers on the chart or anything unless those barbells mean something and I dont understand what its saying??? Also the next page in the manual is off to another topic So it says to measure resistance but doesnt tell you what it should be, Only thing I can think of is that barbell means 0 resistance at that temp??

 

That wording is really misleading...

Those aren't sensors with variable resistance. They're switches. You don't measure resistance - just measure continuity.

Most multi-meters have a continuity setting where it BEEPS when there is continuity. Otherwise, use the RESISTANCE setting. Open circuit (below the switch temperature) it's like the leads NOT touching. Continuity (above the switch temperature) reads about the same as when you touch the leads together.

 

Here's a schematic so we can all get on the same page;
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/3...cfanschow9.jpg
And here is the fan control tests ;
http://hondadude.webs.com/91Accfancntrltest.pdf