I recently purchased a 2017 Accord Sport 2.4L with 6 speed manual transmission. Today I discovered an alarming problem with the cruise control.

There is a problem with disconnecting the speed control when the clutch is depressed. When running in gear with the speed control engaged both the "Cancel" button on the steering wheel and the Brake pedal both immediately cancel the speed control and the "Cruise Set" light on the cluster immediately goes dark. This is normal operation.

However, when the clutch pedal is depressed there is a time delay of approximately 4 seconds before the "Cruise Set" light goes out and the speed control is turned off. Today when I downshifted from 6th to 5th the cruise stayed engaged preventing the engine braking I was expecting, instead, when I let the clutch out in 5th, the engine revved up and the speed remained constant which is awfully unsettling since I was closing on a slower car in front of me. This is my fourth manual trans Accord, and none of the previous cars I have owned behaved this way.

I have pulled the switch on the clutch pedal and it tests good and I have it adjusted properly. I am suspecting there is an issue in the cruise control module, but don't know where it is, or how to test it. I am hoping someone else may know what the cause is and how to correct it. Thanks in advance!

 

The 2017 accord throttle plate is controlled by the PCM, so the cruise control function is handled by the PCM as well. There is no cruise control cable that physically adjusts the throttle plate like on older accords.

Does the cruise set light turn off immediately when you hit the brake pedal when driving with the cruise control on?

 

Yes, when the brake pedal is pushed the light goes out immediately, just the way cruise control has always worked for the past 40 years. Same thing when I press the "cancel" button on the steering wheel. It is just when the clutch pedal is pushed that there is a delay.

I have read on the internet that this is how Honda has configured the cruise control to work so that drivers wouldn't have to go through the effort to reset the speed when downshifting on hills. If that is the case, this is the dumbest most dangerous change to a common operating function they could make. Adding an additional step to the process of downshifting to get engine braking makes the process more complicated and distracting. I wonder how many accidents this has caused? The worst part is that I have two other vehicles that have cruise that does not work this way. Now I have to remember a different operating system that is unique to one manufacturer? If true, this is beyond stupid.

 

I'd try to verify the PCM programming by calling a dealership.

One way to rule out a faulty clutch pedal switch is by unplugging the switch and running two wires to the connector. When driving with the CC turned on, short the wires together to see if the cruise control immediately turns off. If it immedately turns off, then you pretty much verified a faulty clutch pedal switch or it is way out of adjustment.

 

I wasn't able to do the test with the wires, but I did pull the switch out and it works perfectly on the bench. Then I reinstalled it in the pedal assembly and hooked it up to my meter and it worked perfectly when the pedal is pushed.

I think I can eliminate the switch as the problem.

 

From your description, the problem could be (in no particular order) the PCM programming, the brake switch, or the wiring.

I'm not sure how you bench tested or tested on the car, but a volt meter with resistance or continuity can be misleading. The volt meter sends a very small currrent to measure resistance, so a switch with poor contact could test good on a volt meter, but still not function under much more current when installed on the car. Hope this makes sense.

Shorting the connector when driving will eliminate or identify the clutch pedal switch while driving. If the CC behaves the same by shorting the clutch pedal connector, you can short the 12V wire on the clutch pedal switch directly to ground to remove the ground wire in testing.

 

The switch was tested by removing it from the pedal assembly and connecting a continuity tester to it. The tester works with a 3V battery and a piezo beeper that draws 15-20ma. The switch contact closes reliably at a plunger extension of approximately 1/16".

Having confirmed that the switch has a good contact closure I reinstalled the switch in the clutch pedal assembly. With the switch installed I connected my continuity tester to it. Depressing the pedal approximately 1/2" closes the contacts. Operation is reliable as I spent a good minute under the dash working the pedal. Contact closure was 100% with pedal operation.

As far as switch position adjustment, the switch acts as the stop for the pedal to adjust pedal height so the pedal and switch are always in the proper position for correct operation regardless of the pedal height..

 

I get the testing you are doing. I haven't seen your specific complaint on this forum, so I supect the CC not disconnecting immeditely is not norrmal. Both my Honda's were MT that immediately disengage the CC when I push the clutch pedal as well.

The two shorting methods mentioned earlier would 100% eliminate the switch and/or the ground wire at the switch before having a dealership diagnose or do a software update.

 

I think that a trip to the dealer is in the cards. Thanks a bunch for the help!

 

Understood. Please report back the solution, so it can help out others in the future.