I have had this problem a couple times. Yesterday I drove to a bank, parked and turned my car off. When I started the car again it immediately died. Then I tried to start it a couple times, but it wouldn't turn over (Usually starts up pretty quickly. So I pressed the gas pedal twice quickly and not all the way to the floor, to give it a little gas. Then I tried to start it again but it wouldn't start. I waited a couple seconds between each time I tried to start it and eventually it started back up (took maybe about 2 minutes to start car again). This has only happened to my car a couple times, randomly.

Could it be possibly that I need a new distributor cap? I did a partial tuneup on my car a couple months back (changed the spark plugs/and wires and oil) because I am living almost paycheck to paycheck. I never changed the fuel filter either since I bought the car in 2011.

I also replaced the ignition coil (It is a 1 year warranty ignition coil, not a lifetime warranty coil) months before I did the partial tuneup. I noticed that one of the terminal screws was stripped (where you place the Phillips screwdriver to screw/unscrew it, not stripped threads) so my friend at O'Reilly had a hard time getting it off. He also noticed that the rotor looked in good condition so I didn't buy a new distributor rotor. I am wondering if maybe that one screw could be the problem also, or part of the problem somehow?

Sometimes my car also idles smooth, what looks like 800 RPM's, but then sometimes I noticed the needle dropped down to 500 RPM's (Idles rough) or lower, like it almost wants to die.

Please help. I rely on my car to make money to live.
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1990 Accord DX, 2.2 L F22A, Manual

 

The term turning over can have different meanings.

When you turn the key to start the car, does the starter spin the engine at the normal rate? Or does the engine not fire up (when the engine is running on its own and you release the key)?

 

I heard the starter trying to start the engine. The engine doesn't start for a couple turns of the key. And then, maybe five or so tries later, it starts up (fires up).

What I mean to say is. I turned the car off. Then I fired it up (Had ignition/combustion for maybe a couple seconds), but then it immediately died. Then tried to start it a couple times (but didn't want to fry the starter by keeping the key turned too long). Then eventually it fired up again, and I drove away.

 

Sounds like a few possibles here.

I totally understand the paycheck to paycheck thing.

From here, check for any stored codes - no cost, only need a paperclip....then again some of the 90 had an LED on the ECU/TCU.

Do you have or can you borrow a volt meter or test light? If so, if this happens again, turn the key to "on"/Pos II and see if you are getting voltage to the BLK/YEL wire going to the dist......checking for a failing ign switch - elect part.

Save up for a cap and rotor - they can "look" fine but still be going/wearing out.

The screw on the coil shouldn't be an issue - hoping we are talking about the ign coil with a plug wire going from it to the dist and not the ICM inside the dist.

 

How do I check for stored codes with a paperclip?

I have a multimeter tester if that will work?

We might be talking about the same wire. There are only two of them that are screwed down to part of the ignition coil with really small brass or brass colored screws. I think they are called terminal wires that these screws hold down.

Thanks for the help

 

On the passenger kick panel side, there is a 2-pin blue service check connector.

See this thread for the connector on a 1990 Accord:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...al-pics-49074/