An easy one for you guys.
ORIGINAL: JohnL
The idle is either adjusted too high at the throttle stop screw, the butterfly valve is sticking open, or you have a massive air leak somewhere. It diesels because the idle speed is waytoo high, allowing air / fuel mix into the engine in large quantities even after the throttle is 'closed', and you have 'hot spots' in the combustion chambers causing pre-ignition (which will be the case even when the engine is isn't dieseling after shut down, and can cause damage). These hot spots will continue to ignite the fuel / air mix even after the sparks plugs have stopped sparking. Hot spots can be from overheated plugs glowing red hot, or carbon build up glowing red hot.
To address the dieseling, first fix the high idle, then check plug heat range and correct if the plugs are too hot a plug (you might want to fit the coldest recommended plug for that engine). If this doesn't fix it then try trickling a stream of water down the carby throat with the engine running at a high idle, but be careful not to use too much or you can 'hydrolock' the engine causing damage. This 'steam cleans' the combustion chambers and often gets rid of carbonhot spots. You should see dirty steam come out the exhaust pipe, and the engine will run a bit rough while you trickle water in, but if the engine starts to struggle back off the water trickle and increase rpm a bit.
Find the engine number on the motor or on the vin plate and ask Honda dealer, they can tell you exactly which engine it is, or you search on the net once you have the engine number. Some (all?) Hondaengines have the engine model designation engraved or stamped somehere on the engine block.
I think you will need an entire VTEC engine etc.
The fan may be cactus, or it may be the coolant temp switch that turns it on, or you may have a loose wire or bad earth or fuse. The lights sound like it's a switch related problem.
I highly recommend you don't run the engine without a filter, you'll suck all sorts of crap in and shorten the engine life quite substantially. The loose cable could be associated with the high idle speed, this would fit with the ideas that the throttle stop screw is adjusted too far out or that the butterfly is sticking open.
So long as you remember what you did, you may want to switch them back once you've sorted the real cause of your problems, and anything else you may have "messed with" on the carby.
Float level will have nothing to do with a very high idle problem, it will be air flow related. But,check it anyway.
Really? That sounds optimistic to me, at least for a standard engine in need of work...
ORIGINAL: Nova
When I got it this morning, it would always idle at 3grand,
Another issue is that it "Diesels" for about a minute after I shut it off.
BUT!!! Here is the curveball... I can't release the key fast enough when I start it. It takes less than half a second to start... EVERY TIME!
When I got it this morning, it would always idle at 3grand,
Another issue is that it "Diesels" for about a minute after I shut it off.
BUT!!! Here is the curveball... I can't release the key fast enough when I start it. It takes less than half a second to start... EVERY TIME!
To address the dieseling, first fix the high idle, then check plug heat range and correct if the plugs are too hot a plug (you might want to fit the coldest recommended plug for that engine). If this doesn't fix it then try trickling a stream of water down the carby throat with the engine running at a high idle, but be careful not to use too much or you can 'hydrolock' the engine causing damage. This 'steam cleans' the combustion chambers and often gets rid of carbonhot spots. You should see dirty steam come out the exhaust pipe, and the engine will run a bit rough while you trickle water in, but if the engine starts to struggle back off the water trickle and increase rpm a bit.
ORIGINAL: Nova
More info on the car.
The filter box says 12valve on it, the valve cover says Honda, and that is it... I have no clue what engine is in this thing.
More info on the car.
The filter box says 12valve on it, the valve cover says Honda, and that is it... I have no clue what engine is in this thing.
ORIGINAL: Nova
It IS carburated, but I really want to go to VTEC (anyone have a post about this?)
It IS carburated, but I really want to go to VTEC (anyone have a post about this?)
ORIGINAL: Nova
AND this thing has a LOT of wiring issues... For instance... The electric fan doesn't turn on. The headlights will turn on if you have the magic touch.
AND this thing has a LOT of wiring issues... For instance... The electric fan doesn't turn on. The headlights will turn on if you have the magic touch.
ORIGINAL: Nova
What I have already done:
I took the filter box off and messed with the carb. I felt all the vaccum hoses and they all seem to be fine. I felt the throttle linkage; it feels pretty loose.
What I have already done:
I took the filter box off and messed with the carb. I felt all the vaccum hoses and they all seem to be fine. I felt the throttle linkage; it feels pretty loose.
ORIGINAL: Nova
I switched 2 vaccum hoses around and it dropped my idle to about 2300, but not nearly what I want it to be at.
I switched 2 vaccum hoses around and it dropped my idle to about 2300, but not nearly what I want it to be at.
ORIGINAL: Nova
I didn't check the side of the carb too see if the float was sticking, but I will do that tomorrow.
I didn't check the side of the carb too see if the float was sticking, but I will do that tomorrow.
ORIGINAL: Nova
Even with all the stuff I did to it today, I can still do 0-60 in about6-7 seconds.
Even with all the stuff I did to it today, I can still do 0-60 in about6-7 seconds.

WheelBrokerAng
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DON'T seafoam a carb in this condition!!!!! It sounds like this engine needs the carb and intake manifold removed for cleaning. If there are chunks of crap in there, Seafoam will cause you some nightmares!!! Once you have these parts cleaned, Seafoam will be your best friend for annual cleanings, but not yet. The last thing you need is another problem to make diagnostics difficult. Before you remove these parts, remember to pick up some new gaskets and sealer.
Increadible help.
Thanks a lot everyone.
I will probably do a comp. check and see where my weak points are, if some are low, I will adjust the valves.
I would say this thing could use some spark plugs... Are NKG usuallygapped right??
Thanks a lot everyone.
I will probably do a comp. check and see where my weak points are, if some are low, I will adjust the valves.
I would say this thing could use some spark plugs... Are NKG usuallygapped right??
ORIGINAL: Nova
I would say this thing could use some spark plugs... Are NKG usuallygapped right??
I would say this thing could use some spark plugs... Are NKG usuallygapped right??
If the NGK plug number has a hyphenated number at the end, it's the gap set at the factory.
For example:
PZFR5F-11 is factory-gapped to 1.1mm = 0.043"
PZFR5F (without the -11) is the same plug with a different gap.
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Scott Schreffler
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Jun 19, 2012 08:18 AM




