Please help. I've been told this is a common problem for my model accord (see my id). Not sure if that is true, but sure would appreciate some expert mechanic opinion on if that is true and how to troubleshoot which lock actuator it is so I can be sure of which one before I purchase and DIY replace the expensive part?
One more question, did my model have any engine hood insulation like other manufacturer models have (such as ford, chevy bmw etc)?
Thank You very much for your help and expert knowledge!
Mac

 

I don't think there is insulation under the hood.

The actuator that caused those problems on my 95 was the front driver's side actuator. I think that you can unplug the actuator one at a time to see which one stops the cycling. You will have to remove the door panel to access the plug.

 

And if you are really brave, there is a small rubber bumper inside the actuator that "usually" goes bad, meaning if you open up the actuator and repair replace the little rubber piece the part will last another ~13-14 years. Google or youtube srearches should help on how to do that repair/fix.

 

For the insulation, Honda does different things with different versions. For example the EX might have insulation but the LX might not. That's exactly how it is with my 2 daughters' Civics.

 

The attached pic is from another member- Redbull-1. My memory was worng, what is new, there are two rubber stops inside the actuator.

 

First and foremost, Thanks to all of you for the replies and expert assistance!
I mistakenly put in ID that it is a LE when in acutuallity it is an SE (specail edition). but too difficult to change the ID and don't think that importnat anyway.
Regarding the cycling doorlocks. The left rear has been making nosie every time locked or unlocked manually or with buttons. I took Poorman212 reply and decided to pull the actuator on the left rear that was making noise. Might as well try and get rid of the noise while troubleshooting the cycling problem. I went all the way and dismantled the actuator also. As he suggested it WAS one rubber bumper stops that had broken and luckily was still in the actuator. It was only broken in half so I glued it together and it seemed to stick together while testing before reinstalling in on the prong. It also didnt break when going over the prong and when manually testing it. put it back together and hooked jsut that part to the elect plug and it worked without any noise. Not sure how long that fix will hold but it saved me the $100+ that it would have cost to replace it for now. LOL.
Put the system all back together and installed back inot the door. (The difficult part of that is getting past the rear part of the window guide slide. even after removing the lower bolt). Anyway got past it and all working without noise. So thanks again.
HOWEVER, I am sitll having the cycling problem and worried about draining the battery overnight or a weekend? Anybody know if that is probable?
I did download the service manual (thanks for the lead guys), but that doesn't identify where or what my problemm might be. I'm thinking it is the master door lock board (or whatever it is called) which is also part of my security system on the SE model. Someone told me it is under the front passenger seat. I've had the seats and carpet out before (don't ask why because it was my doughters car through high school and college - lol).
So can anyone tell me if the cycling door lockes when locked is caused by my master lock and security box under the passenger seat? If so will replacing it require some new coding or something since I have a handheld lock/unlock panic?
The master box is more than $200. any way to fix if or where might I get a good one cheaper?

Thanks for any and all help!
Mac

 

I'm betting, guessing-I don't like doing that, you have another actuator bad. The drivers side gets the most use. If you unplug that one, does it do the same thing. Then there are the two others (right/pass side frt and rear) to check as well.

 

Thanks for the reply Poorman.
It's an SE (not an LE as I mistakenly said earlier). Before I go through the trouble of taking off all the door panels, I was told by a Honda Mech that if I disconnect one door lock, the system will not indicate that the one I have disconnected is the problem and will still do the cycling. If anyone has some direct expereince with this I would apprecaite your advice.
Poorman, I may end up doing each door but just wanted to see if anyone had another idea? And if I do end up getting the master (under front passenger seat) do you have any suggestions on best paloce to get a good one at a low price?
Thanks

 

You can also try repairing them.

Read:

honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2465699

 

Mac, That is the thread from Redbull-1 I referenced in the e-mail yesterday....didn't have the thread, just the pic.