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Engine died on freeway, starter spins but does not turn engine
97 Accord LX, 4 cyl, auto trans
Engine died coming off freeway off ramp (decelerating, braking), all electricals still worked: headlights, etc.
Tried starting it: starter sounds like it spins but doesn't crank the engine at all-- like the starter isn't engaging the flywheel at all. (Assuming not a dead/weak battery problem since the starter was spinning, and would think the starter wouldn't spin if engine seized.)
Car was running fine with no obvious signs something was wrong before the engine died: no stalling/idling problems.
What should I be checking at this point?
Timing belt related?
Distributor?
Other?
Thanks and let me know if I can provide any additional info.
Suggest having engine Crankshaft/Camshaft timing alignment checked. Align crankshaft at TDC and check that camshaft is alsow aligned to TDC.
Broken timing belt may bend valves and leave no/low compression resulting in high starter turn speed.
If timing checks OK, then starter is likely not engaging; weak starter solenoid might cause this. Suggest trying to "hammer" the starter w/ repeated on/off/on/off to see if engagement of starter occurs (after checking timing!) .
1994 Accord, 4 Cyl, Auto trans.
Hi, I'm a newbie. In this forum as well as to Honda.
I have a 1994 Honda Accord.
This sounds very much like the problem I've been having. Runs superbly, then randomly the engine completely shuts off. There's power and lights. Starts again perfectly after a little rest.
(It seems to happen more in rainy weather.) Doesn't matter if I'm cruising on freeway or stopped in traffic, it could happen without notice.
I've just replaced the distributor and thought that was the end of it, but its back...
Its a nice car, runs so well - except for stranding me on the roads and occasional intersection (!) - I want to have a crack at fixing this up, before I try to sell it.
Its god-awful getting stuck in the rain, middle of the night on an expressway out of town..
I'd love some help.. Thank so much.
Last edited by Fdew; Oct 11, 2018 at 12:54 AM.
Reason: Remembered the model details
1994 Accord, 4 Cyl, Auto trans.
Hi, I'm a newbie. In this forum as well as to Honda.
I have a 1994 Honda Accord.
This sounds very much like the problem I've been having. Runs superbly, then randomly the engine completely shuts off. There's power and lights. Starts again perfectly after a little rest.
(It seems to happen more in rainy weather.) Doesn't matter if I'm cruising on freeway or stopped in traffic, it could happen without notice.
I've just replaced the distributor and thought that was the end of it, but its back...
Its a nice car, runs so well - except for stranding me on the roads and occasional intersection (!) - I want to have a crack at fixing this up, before I try to sell it.
Its god-awful getting stuck in the rain, middle of the night on an expressway out of town..
I'd love some help.. Thank so much.
You might want to look and see if you have any codes present. Under the glove box door is a connector that using a paper clip will cough up a code thru the mil/cel light. For that model, you count the flashes, and make note of the space (for a 2 digit code). Let us know if you find any.
YES!! The Toecutter.... there are codes!
Firstly, for the benefit of others, I looked up how to pull the codes, the links are here:
Youtube instruction video on Pulling CEL/MIL codes:
It was easy:
PULLED CODES FROM LIGHT: D4:
14: Idle air control valve or bad ECM
15: Ignition output signal
What I found under the glovebox and pulling the codes-
*there were 2 blue connecters, one with 2 pin and one with 3 pin, next to each other in the same loom. NEITHER were connected / plugged in?? (photo attached)
* They should be plugged in...??
* Just wondering if there's a 3-pronged device I can make easily to pull a code from the 3 pin one??
*And, the codes came from the D4 (Drive 4) light flashing on the dash. There were no other lights flashing.
It's a different list of codes when the D4 light flashes. What you list is if the check-engine light was flashing 14 & 15. Give me a minute to look them up...
You may want to download the FSM for your model (I think it's the 94-97). There might be a link at the top of the page.
What you're after is the fuel and emissions section out of it.
In it, it'll go thru testing the IAC valve, along with replacing it, and also testing the ignition output signal, and possible causes, along with how to fix it.
Like mentioned in other threads on here, test before replacing. Don't throw new parts at it until you know they are bad. It's possible that your IAC might have a bad wire/connection, rather than having a bad valve. Usually a bad IAC valve will cause the engine to rev between 1300 rpms and 2K rpms (cycling between those points). Just a thought.
Idle control & ignition signal would be indicated by the CEL flashing when he shorts the SCS connector. He said it's the D4 lamp flashing, so make sure you're looking at the transmission error list.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.
Engine died on freeway, starter spins but does not turn engine
