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fb23A jdm swap

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  #11  
Old 02-05-2013, 07:19 PM
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Ha!! the three wire
 
  #12  
Old 02-06-2013, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RP94ex
Ha!! the three wire
Yeah, your OBD2a ECU won't know what to do with a three-wire IACV, no matter how you spliced it.

I went the IACV adapter route; wished I'd bought a throttle body spacer too. Some people just block off the IACV and set the idle speed with the base idle screw. But you'll still have a CEL.
 
  #13  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:41 PM
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well i was reading on the three wire two 2 wire on civics but they talk about moving the pins around on the plug and that you end up with a unused 0range wire but the accord does not have a orange wire on the that plug.
 
  #14  
Old 02-07-2013, 10:55 AM
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I went searching too when I did my swap. This is the best explanation I found:
So it looks like the ECU must be compatible with the IACV, which makes sense. The 2-wire IACV is a linear solenoid type with a spring and plunger, and the 3-wire is a rotary valve. So there is no way to make them compatible because the 2-wire just needs a simple low side driver to ground but the 3-wire needs an H-bridge driver most likely.
vadriven(dot)com/forums/tech-talk-9/h22a-swap-iacv-wiring-issues-367068/
Having lived with the 2-wire IACV adapter for nine months since the swap, the car idles perfectly, cold and hot, and I've had zero problems with the adapter or IACV.
 

Last edited by Roader; 02-07-2013 at 10:57 AM. Reason: typo
  #15  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:19 PM
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ok I see your point but see; my f22 throttle body does not have a set screw . Is that because it was a vtec . So in other words every thing else is the same as far as sensors but the iac . On my second motor i went ahead and used the f22 intake, But this time its the f23. Hold on let me show you this ; see if it makes sense How to Hardwire an IACV Direct to ECU | eHow.com
 

Last edited by RP94ex; 08-22-2013 at 08:37 PM.
  #16  
Old 02-10-2013, 11:01 AM
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I'm not quite sure what to make of that link. Since they're getting rid of one wire, are they wiring it so an OBD2b ECU will operate an OBD2a two-wire IACV? Can't tell.

Regardless, I don't think you're going to have any luck getting your ECU to run a three-wire IACV. Your throttle body doesn't have one of these? It's usually got yellow paint on it.
 
Attached Thumbnails fb23A jdm swap-idle-adjustment-screw.jpg  
  #17  
Old 02-10-2013, 04:16 PM
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Ok you are right so instead making it any harder than what is. Ill just get that plate and be done with it
 
  #18  
Old 02-10-2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Roader
I'm not quite sure what to make of that link. Since they're getting rid of one wire, are they wiring it so an OBD2b ECU will operate an OBD2a two-wire IACV? Can't tell.

Regardless, I don't think you're going to have any luck getting your ECU to run a three-wire IACV. Your throttle body doesn't have one of these? It's usually got yellow paint on it.
Yeah it does. Never paid any attention to it till you showed me that pic.
 

Last edited by RP94ex; 08-22-2013 at 08:38 PM.
  #19  
Old 03-03-2013, 07:31 PM
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Ok so i listen to Roader i got the adapter plate its the only way to go! i guess if you do this you have to get your old IAC valve modified. in reference to the nipple that hits the tps sensor. no way around it so at work. had a 3/8 stainless steel tube bent and welded free of course; but it had to be pointing at 11 o'clock . This guy welded it at 9 it works but you will have the hose rubbing the fire wall
 
Attached Thumbnails fb23A jdm swap-2402201314331.jpg   fb23A jdm swap-240220131432.jpg   fb23A jdm swap-240220131430.jpg  

Last edited by RP94ex; 08-22-2013 at 08:41 PM.
  #20  
Old 03-03-2013, 08:19 PM
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Beautiful welding! Beats the hell out of my brazed copper elbow.

Consider buying another IACV cheap at the junkard. Buy the guy at work a 12 pack, have him bend tubing into an "S" (two 90° curves), and weld that on. That way the coolant line will go over the TPS and point towards the right side of the car.
 


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