a few problems i would like to solve
#11
10-13-2012, 10:44 AM
If you don't want to buy a code reader a few options for you.
1) Most parts stores will do this for free.
2) Not as good as the OBD-II codes but the 96 still had the service connector under the glove box, you can jump it and get the OBD-I codes.
Plugs, I'd suggest NGK.
1) Most parts stores will do this for free.
2) Not as good as the OBD-II codes but the 96 still had the service connector under the glove box, you can jump it and get the OBD-I codes.
Plugs, I'd suggest NGK.
#13
10-13-2012, 12:36 PM
The starting issue occured again today. It just got very cold, the lowest yet this winter. (did not feel like winter until last night lol) Anyway it turned over but didnt start the first time. I let off, fuel pump ran again (i could hear and see the check engine light go off with it), tried it again then it started. The lights on the dash did not even dim hardly at all during cranking, and the starter sounded a bit "slow" turning, (best way i could describe it) does this mean the starter is bad? (not very much current flowing through it) again the battery is brand new.
#15
10-13-2012, 06:28 PM
Don't worry about removing/cleaning the other ends of battery cable. You can eyeball them if you want, but I've never seen a problem at the starter, fuse box (other end of positive), or engine ground.
ECU problems can also cause engine stoppage and hard cranking. We've been seeing more of these of late. Usually a code is presented that is eventually traced to a board defect. You will need code/s and some diagnostics to confirm a ECU problem.
good luck
ECU problems can also cause engine stoppage and hard cranking. We've been seeing more of these of late. Usually a code is presented that is eventually traced to a board defect. You will need code/s and some diagnostics to confirm a ECU problem.
good luck
#16
10-13-2012, 07:50 PM
One maintenance item you didn't mention was the spark plugs.
I would replace them. Use the NGK ZFR5F-11 plugs. They are the copper V-power plugs that most parts stores carry for ~ $2 a plug. There should be a sticker under your hood or in the driver's door jamb with the spark plug information too.
Take a look at the spark plug wires. The OEM wires seem to last forever, so if they are the original and look good, I would leave them alone. If the insulation looks bad, then you may want to replace them. The OEM wires are expensive, but I would avoid aftermarket ones. NGK and Denso make good quality spark plug wires.
I would replace them. Use the NGK ZFR5F-11 plugs. They are the copper V-power plugs that most parts stores carry for ~ $2 a plug. There should be a sticker under your hood or in the driver's door jamb with the spark plug information too.
Take a look at the spark plug wires. The OEM wires seem to last forever, so if they are the original and look good, I would leave them alone. If the insulation looks bad, then you may want to replace them. The OEM wires are expensive, but I would avoid aftermarket ones. NGK and Denso make good quality spark plug wires.
#17
11-03-2012, 11:36 AM
Hey again guys, i bet you thought i fixed this or gave up, but i finally managed to have my camera with me and record it when the problem occurred again.
Yes, i realize i could have held the key to start on the first time a bit longer before letting off, but i have other times this problem happens and it does not help, it just keeps cranking strong like that but never catches. Then the second time, as you see, it starts right up no problem.
I don't know if you can hear it, but the fuel pump does come on during the check engine light and i always let it run the two seconds before starting this leads me to believe that the problem is not the main relay. The main problem for using starting fluid to test for spark vs fuel problems is that this does not happen every time, but when it does happen, it is always when it is cold and has not been on for a while.
From some research, this leads me to believe that the problem may be the ICM, as in this video :
but this may just be a stupid assumption.
thank you.
Yes, i realize i could have held the key to start on the first time a bit longer before letting off, but i have other times this problem happens and it does not help, it just keeps cranking strong like that but never catches. Then the second time, as you see, it starts right up no problem.
I don't know if you can hear it, but the fuel pump does come on during the check engine light and i always let it run the two seconds before starting this leads me to believe that the problem is not the main relay. The main problem for using starting fluid to test for spark vs fuel problems is that this does not happen every time, but when it does happen, it is always when it is cold and has not been on for a while.
From some research, this leads me to believe that the problem may be the ICM, as in this video :
thank you.
#18
11-03-2012, 01:39 PM
To me, it doesn't sound like the ICM.
I don't have anything to back this up, so more of thing to think about.
When you replaced the dist cap, was the o-ring replaced as well. Without it, sometimes water can get in or condensation will build up -temp changes ect.
Next, might think about testing the ECT. I think somewhere you stated this only seems to happen when cold. So if the ECU is not reading the engine temp correctly, then a hard start when cold can happen....even though the CEL is not triggered....a reach I know but it has happned before.
I don't have anything to back this up, so more of thing to think about.
When you replaced the dist cap, was the o-ring replaced as well. Without it, sometimes water can get in or condensation will build up -temp changes ect.
Next, might think about testing the ECT. I think somewhere you stated this only seems to happen when cold. So if the ECU is not reading the engine temp correctly, then a hard start when cold can happen....even though the CEL is not triggered....a reach I know but it has happned before.
#19
11-03-2012, 02:55 PM
thanks for the reply. there I go again assuming the wrong thing right away.
Not sure what you mean by "o-ring" I did replace the gasket that makes the seal between the cap and the distributor, but usually "o-ring" means a perfectly round gasket, right? If you believe this to be the problem, i can try to clean the inside, though i did wipe it out after i dropped the rotor in.
As for the ect, i have no idea when that was last checked, most likely never. How do you "test" it? If you believe this is the problem i can replace it. Do you have a recommended brand or they are basically all the same?
Not sure what you mean by "o-ring" I did replace the gasket that makes the seal between the cap and the distributor, but usually "o-ring" means a perfectly round gasket, right? If you believe this to be the problem, i can try to clean the inside, though i did wipe it out after i dropped the rotor in.
As for the ect, i have no idea when that was last checked, most likely never. How do you "test" it? If you believe this is the problem i can replace it. Do you have a recommended brand or they are basically all the same?
#20
11-03-2012, 03:54 PM
Again, most of the time the ICM will fail all at once or fail once hot - car has been running for some period of time.
O-ring/gasket? I call it an o-ring because most of it is round rubber.....yes to fit the dist cap it is an odd shape and then it does have the "other" part where it snaps/holds to the cap.
Last, I want to be clear. The ECT idea is an "off the chart". Before spending one cent on a new one, I'd rather give you every bit of detail on testing the one you have. You will need a volt meter that can read resistance...please do not buy one on my off the wall idea....PLEASE.
O-ring/gasket? I call it an o-ring because most of it is round rubber.....yes to fit the dist cap it is an odd shape and then it does have the "other" part where it snaps/holds to the cap.
Last, I want to be clear. The ECT idea is an "off the chart". Before spending one cent on a new one, I'd rather give you every bit of detail on testing the one you have. You will need a volt meter that can read resistance...please do not buy one on my off the wall idea....PLEASE.
Last edited by poorman212; 11-04-2012 at 06:25 AM. Reason: spell