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Fuel pump kicks on intermittently- '95 Honda Accord

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  #11  
Old 03-19-2016, 12:32 AM
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Thanks to both of you for helping me! The issue ended up being the ECU which I did replace and everything is operating as it should. I did have to eliminate all the other options because ECUs are normally 300+. I was able to find one at a junk yard for 65 but that was a huge gamble. It did pay off though. Thanks again.
 
  #12  
Old 03-19-2016, 11:23 AM
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I'm glad it worked. I'm always hesitant to suggest the PCM is the problem, because it could be wasting money on a problem that ultimately was not the PCM. There aren't a set of simple tests on the PCM to verify the PCM is causing your problem.
 
  #13  
Old 06-11-2020, 09:47 AM
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1
Default Intermittent Fuel Pump 1995 Honda Accord

Originally Posted by Bobous
1995 Honda Accord EX 2.2L Vtec

This issue has been occurring for about 4 months every time I go to start it.

I turn the key to the ll or "On" position. The fuel pump should at that point turn on. It does not. It will eventually. It would take anywhere from 30 seconds to 20 minutes. The more time between driving my car the more time I would have to wait for it to turn on.

Last week, it did not turn on at all. I replaced the Main Relay which is also the fuel pump relay. Same issue. I then replaced the fuel pump and assembly. Ever since, I have been able to get the pump to turn on but in the manner described before. (so the issue is not yet resolved, obviously.)

After all of this, I had my OBD2 reader plugged in and the key in the ll position. My code reader lit up as though it was plugged in and was attempting to connect to the car ECU. It could not. So I sat there pondering all the bad decisions in my life that lead me to this point and the fuel pump kicks on. (This is about 10 min of the code reader being connected and the key on) At that same exact moment the code reader detected the ECU. (NO errors by the way)

This is all very odd to me. Please let me know if any of you have any ideas. Thank you.
After having issues with much weird intermittent Fuel pump engage issues, and especially since the hot weather came, i first replaced the relay, that didn't work. Then I replaced the fuel pump, still didn't work. I just now today ordered a new computer module ECU or ECM. I'll advise after I install it. An easy fix and easy to remove. A place in Long Island NY has the ECU rather cheap, cost $161 plus tax. My part # for the ECU is 37820-POA- A51. Again I will advise if it solves my issues.
Here is the place that sold me it.
 

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  #14  
Old 06-15-2020, 08:29 AM
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Cocoa, FL
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Originally Posted by Red Feather
After having issues with much weird intermittent Fuel pump engage issues, and especially since the hot weather came, i first replaced the relay, that didn't work. Then I replaced the fuel pump, still didn't work. I just now today ordered a new computer module ECU or ECM. I'll advise after I install it. An easy fix and easy to remove. A place in Long Island NY has the ECU rather cheap, cost $161 plus tax. My part # for the ECU is 37820-POA- A51. Again I will advise if it solves my issues.
Here is the place that sold me it.

Did it fix your issue?
 
  #15  
Old 06-16-2020, 07:59 AM
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Cocoa, FL
Posts: 9
Default Jumper 12v switched pin on main relay

This was a thought I had as I’m going through the same thing. ECU will be here Friday. I’m certain that is the problem. But there is another 12v switched power source on the main relay with the key on II position. As a last resort, a jumper could be soldered between the other 12v switched source and pin 7 (fuel pump). It would no longer prime for 2 seconds but run all the time, that is the downfall. But not a huge drawback since the fuel system has a return and the SRS would still take out the main relay (and fuel pump) if it were ever involved in a crash. I’m just saying as a last resort this could be done. Just wouldn’t prime for 2 seconds but would be on all the time. So you wouldn’t be able to just listen to the radio without the fuel pump running but I don’t know why anyone would do that in the II position on the key. That would be done in the I position of ignition. Like I said, safety features would still shut it down in the event of an accident. Also, LAST RESORT.
 
  #16  
Old 09-15-2020, 07:28 PM
Join Date: Sep 2020
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Hi Red Feather. Did it work? I'm having the same issue and replaced the relay. No power is coming from it to the fuel pump. Wondering if the new ecu worked for you. Thanks.
 
  #17  
Old 09-16-2020, 05:48 AM
Join Date: Sep 2020
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Originally Posted by farristrey
This was a thought I had as I’m going through the same thing. ECU will be here Friday. I’m certain that is the problem. But there is another 12v switched power source on the main relay with the key on II position. As a last resort, a jumper could be soldered between the other 12v switched source and pin 7 (fuel pump). It would no longer prime for 2 seconds but run all the time, that is the downfall. But not a huge drawback since the fuel system has a return and the SRS would still take out the main relay (and fuel pump) if it were ever involved in a crash. I’m just saying as a last resort this could be done. Just wouldn’t prime for 2 seconds but would be on all the time. So you wouldn’t be able to just listen to the radio without the fuel pump running but I don’t know why anyone would do that in the II position on the key. That would be done in the I position of ignition. Like I said, safety features would still shut it down in the event of an accident. Also, LAST RESORT.
Did the new ECU work for you? I'm having the same issue. I'm going to try to temporarily add a jumper to make sure the fuel pump works. Thanks for the idea.
 
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