Gas gauge (dash)
#1
Gas gauge (dash)
So my dash gas gauge doesn’t get higher than 3/4 on my 96. The gauge was always slow to reach the full line before ( and that’s after filling and then turning the car on would take a few minutes even) but as of late it’s not making it up past 3/4 unless just a hair and that was once it went a little higher. Now I’m filling my tank all the way up most the time so I know it should read full but on the off chance it doesn’t fully fill I don’t let it get down to E to prove my theory.
if my guess is correct it’s old worn out maybe the needle just got screwy and it thinks 3/4 is the full mark meaning I should be at 1/4 on E if I’m not correct im guessing it’s my fuel gauge assembly within the tank itself? Not sure all the fixes I’ve seen are for peoples whose gauges are stuck completely any suggested tests are welcome
also usually takes me about 30$ From 1/4 tank to fill up before this started up now I look at about 20$ At 1/4 tank fill up which with raised gas prices and my theory would make some sense
if my guess is correct it’s old worn out maybe the needle just got screwy and it thinks 3/4 is the full mark meaning I should be at 1/4 on E if I’m not correct im guessing it’s my fuel gauge assembly within the tank itself? Not sure all the fixes I’ve seen are for peoples whose gauges are stuck completely any suggested tests are welcome
also usually takes me about 30$ From 1/4 tank to fill up before this started up now I look at about 20$ At 1/4 tank fill up which with raised gas prices and my theory would make some sense
#4
The problem can be the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank, the wiring/connections, or the fuel gauge in the cluster.
A quick test is to remove the access panel in the trunk near the back seat to get the the fuel sending unit. With they key off, unplug the connector to the sending unit. Jump a wire between the yel/blu and blk wire on the harness side of the connector. Turn the key to the II position. See if the gauge raises towards the F past the current "full" level. Turn off the key before the gauge gets to F, or you can damage the gauge.
If the gauge moves past the current 3/4 full mark towards F, then the fuel sending unit has an issue and needs replaced (or maybe repaired).
If the gauge behaves the same, then you may need to replace the fuel gauge or look for bad solder joints on the circuit board of the fuel gauge. You can replace the gauge without replacing other items in the cluster.
A quick test is to remove the access panel in the trunk near the back seat to get the the fuel sending unit. With they key off, unplug the connector to the sending unit. Jump a wire between the yel/blu and blk wire on the harness side of the connector. Turn the key to the II position. See if the gauge raises towards the F past the current "full" level. Turn off the key before the gauge gets to F, or you can damage the gauge.
If the gauge moves past the current 3/4 full mark towards F, then the fuel sending unit has an issue and needs replaced (or maybe repaired).
If the gauge behaves the same, then you may need to replace the fuel gauge or look for bad solder joints on the circuit board of the fuel gauge. You can replace the gauge without replacing other items in the cluster.
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SkylinexBleedsxRed
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02-19-2009 03:29 AM