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Non-airbag. Can find nothing on the web; nothing on Grant's FAQ page. I did email them, but . . .
Anyway -
The Honda has three commutator rings visible after removing the factory wheel; inner for the horn, and two outer for the cruise control buttons on the wheel.
The conductor rings are separated by raised ridges, molded into the Honda plastic housing.
The Grant 3595 hub-adapter is backed with an isolated ~½” wide copper disc, that when installed presses tightly against these raised plastic ridges, and thus makes no contact with any commutator ring.
If I machined the plastic ridges away, the wide adapter copper would simply bridge and press firmly against all three concentric commutator rings (perhaps locking the wheel rotation?), with no “springy conductive follower” to allow relative rotation while maintaining an electrical path.
Steering wheel is all the interior needs to be perfect.
Any help appreciated - still love driving her after 320K miles.
I'm guessing you are putting on an aftermarket steering wheel and are using the adapter to mount?
I'd say contact Grant directly and get their advice on the adapter as the probably encountered this problem before. Maybe you need a different adapter for your vechile?
I'm guessing you are putting on an aftermarket steering wheel and are using the adapter to mount?
I'd say contact Grant directly and get their advice on the adapter as the probably encountered this problem before. Maybe you need a different adapter for your vechile?
Yes - Grant wheel; the correct Grant adapter for the car model, but I did have the wheel-mounted cruise control buttons - so not really their fault.
I removed the cruise buttons; never used them.
I did finally modify the kit, using parts from my stock wheel (the commutator rider ring, with all but the inner fingers removed,), but I had to machine-off the Grant conductor ring, and thin the adapter casting down so as not to lock up the steering wheel.
Then, I had to modify the horn wiring significantly, and replace the joke bits of furnace tape that were supposed to act as a conductive connection on the painted wheel, by being trapped under the shoulder bolts.
Then, the pigtail installation as-designed would rest against one of the shoulder bolts and ground, blowing the horn.
So, I sleeved it.
Then, the cover cowling clamped tightly against the column structure, and I had to shorten it ~1/8".