Thanks for the reply, question about number 25 in the diagram, is that the M6 or the phillips screws? I don't think I have any M6 screws but will be getting some!

 

#25 are the flat-head phillips that you've already removed. They pass through the rotor & thread into the hub (#3) to hold the rotor in place temporarily until you mount the wheel.

Bolts I'm talking about are not shown here at all. Thread them into threaded holes in the rotor, & they push against the hub to drive the rotor off. Probably the threaded holes in the rotor are kinda rusted, so use plenty of grease. Don't take my word about the size being M6, I just grabbed a couple random bolts out of my junk drawer to find something that fit.

 

Will I use the same threaded holes in the rotor that the flat head phillips came out of? If so I can easly take those screw to the auto parts store and get the same size just longer so they drive into the hub. Or would I use the other holes in the rotor?

 

I was gonna ask....didnt think the rotors were held on by anything other than the screws, wheels sorta thing. i am pulling my rotors to get refinished new pads installed. I have a impact screwdriver deal I paid a small fortune for...works AWESOME!!! But for the DIY'er at home without...you can take a philips headed screwdriver and hammer...whack the screwdriver with hammer while twisting on it at the same time in a reverse (removal) direction....produces same results on the cheap for ya.

I threw the damn screws away on my 88 Civic....

 

Not the same thread size - NOT the same holes.

Look at the drawing above...
The flat-head screws are threaded into the hub, at 11-oclock & 5-oclock in that picture.
What you want to use are the OTHER holes in the rotor, at 1-oclock & 7-oclock. The end of the bolts will push against the blank surface of the hub, there is no hole in the hub at that point.

 

The wheel bearings should be replaced when you do the rotors. They aren't really meant to be pressed back together after being taken apart, and if they dont go back properly and you end up having to replace them you have to do all the work all over again.

If you think you'll be doing another brake job or two, get THIS. This gets rid of the terrible Honda design.

 

Careful...
We now have different gen cars in this thread.
SoMdHonda has a 6th-gen, so that's what the picture above covers.

Korrupt with a 97 has the older type where the rotor is trapped by the hub.

 

thank you for the clarification...yes I am 97.

I do like the look of those pieces though that 19accord97 posted...sweet looking pieces!

 

Do you know if the 90-93 rotors are pressed on like your 97? Does it very or do all rotors need a specialty tool for removal? Is there a process involved in installing the new one once you are able to remove the old ones? I am looking at the possibility of installing two new axles and want to try to tackle the rotors at the same time.

 

90-97 all have the same setup.

The rotors are not pressed on to anything, it is bolted to the hub by the 4/5 bolts you see on the hub.

Only the hub and bearing are pressed together. The hub is in front of the rotor. So you have to remove the hub/bearing to slide the rotor over the bearing to remove it. The problem is that the hub/bearing typically gets stuck in the knuckle and is a PIA to remove.

You don't need too many specialty tools to do this job, although there are some available out there.

Recently I saw a You Tube video titled How to Replace Honda Captive Rotors

Watch it to see what you are dealing with.