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Honda accord 1993 EX turns off suddenly.

Old Jul 5, 2021 | 01:36 PM
  #1  
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Default Honda accord 1993 EX turns off suddenly.

Hey guyz. I have this accord 93, and I replaced the fuel pump recently (cuz it used to turn off and stall while driving, checked the pump and it wasnt working and I replaced it) and everything worked perfect for two weeks and then again this happened, while im driving it stutters and turns off. Checked the fuel pump its working, dont know whats the problem! It will start after a few tries, just to turn off quickly, sometimes it just works well and sometimes not. Also i noticed when this happens, the trottle pedal is so light to push.
 
Old Jul 5, 2021 | 03:26 PM
  #2  
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How are you checking the fuel pump is working? Any recent work done on your car other than the fuel pump?

I'd say pay attention to what happens when the car stalls out. Do the dash lights behave like you turned the key to off, then back to the II position (like when the CEL does the bulb check)?

Can you get the engine to stall by shaking the key while the engine is running?

 
Old Jul 6, 2021 | 03:19 AM
  #3  
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Default Hello friend.

Originally Posted by PAhonda
How are you checking the fuel pump is working? Any recent work done on your car other than the fuel pump?

I'd say pay attention to what happens when the car stalls out. Do the dash lights behave like you turned the key to off, then back to the II position (like when the CEL does the bulb check)?

Can you get the engine to stall by shaking the key while the engine is running?
well I just unplugged the fuel wire from the carburattor and switched the key and fuel is coming with enough pressure also when i swiych on there is vibrated sound of fuel pump just for a sec to imply that it is working.
I didnt specifically do any repairs on it recently, just checked the relay (the expert guy said its fine) and fuel pump and carburattor, though there was this problem recently that it had smoke coming out of the exhaust and the mechanic said its cuz of too much fuel injected into the carburattor and fixed it.
I checked to try to switch off the car by shaking the swich but i wont and it keeps working but suddenly in the middle of driving specially during drive mode and engine push it turns off. But when it stalls its just like when you switch the key for check and start. I think position 2 you called it.
But for more info : When the car stalls, the switch is on and lights are on i mean the electricity is there. The start works fine but no juice to run it it seems, after a few tries the car starts poorly then stalls again.
yesterday I opened the carburattor to see the air horn was loose, fixed it back but the same happened again. Can it be a bad carburattor config? (Sorry for the bad English cuz im not a native English speaker)
I also have a repair book for this model, think i found it in the internet few years ago. But i cant get the thing fixed im not a mechanic.
 

Last edited by bladerunner67890; Jul 6, 2021 at 04:13 AM. Reason: Update
Old Jul 6, 2021 | 10:33 AM
  #4  
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Where are you? Honda didn't have any carburators in USA in 1993, so it would be good to confirm it really has a carburator or fuel-injection.

Testing by shaking the key is a 1-way test. If you can make it stall by shaking the key then the switch is bad. If you cannot make it stall that way, it does NOT prove the switch is good. When you describe it's just like turning the key to position 2, that tells me that a bad switch is still a possibility.
 
Old Jul 6, 2021 | 10:57 AM
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Default Hey.

Originally Posted by JimBlake
Where are you? Honda didn't have any carburators in USA in 1993, so it would be good to confirm it really has a carburator or fuel-injection.

Testing by shaking the key is a 1-way test. If you can make it stall by shaking the key then the switch is bad. If you cannot make it stall that way, it does NOT prove the switch is good. When you describe it's just like turning the key to position 2, that tells me that a bad switch is still a possibility.
Yeah its a middle eastern version i guess (dubai or somewhere). Anyway it is carburator.
dont have any idea about switch problem! Cant turn it off by shaking but maybe there is a problem there.
if it works it works good, and then suddenly turns off, but i noticed sometimes when i suddenly throttle it just cant handle it and stutters. But i think its not related to the main problem. Got really confused. I mean if its not from fuel pump and wiring, so it definitely from relay right? The guy who worked on the realy said ita okay.
 
Old Jul 6, 2021 | 11:13 AM
  #6  
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I don't know if the fuel pump relay is the same as our familiar "main relay" which has caused problems.
Usually the problem is caused by cracked solder joints on the circuit board of the relay. Many people have had success by opening the plastic cover and using magnification to look for tiny cracks in the solder joints. Re-melt any cracked ones using a soldering pencil.

Another way to check the ignition switch is remove the plastic covers from the steering column. The electric part of the switch is #11 in the picture. Opposite from the key & lock-cylinder. Sometimes that switch comes loose (fastening screws #5) but I think it's more common that the electrical contacts inside are just burned or broken. Sometimes they fail to make contact and it's not always caused by wiggling the key.


 
Old Jul 6, 2021 | 11:17 AM
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Thinking about it a little more, if the fuel pump were to stop, the carburetor will still have a couple minutes of fuel in the float bowl. The engine would sputter and die after a couple minutes. When the fuel pump stops in a fuel-injected engine, the engine stops immediately. So this might not really fit with a fuel-pump problem.
 
Old Jul 6, 2021 | 06:48 PM
  #8  
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Default Thanks for the info

Originally Posted by JimBlake
I don't know if the fuel pump relay is the same as our familiar "main relay" which has caused problems.
Usually the problem is caused by cracked solder joints on the circuit board of the relay. Many people have had success by opening the plastic cover and using magnification to look for tiny cracks in the solder joints. Re-melt any cracked ones using a soldering pencil.

Another way to check the ignition switch is remove the plastic covers from the steering column. The electric part of the switch is #11 in the picture. Opposite from the key & lock-cylinder. Sometimes that switch comes loose (fastening screws #5) but I think it's more common that the electrical contacts inside are just burned or broken. Sometimes they fail to make contact and it's not always caused by wiggling the key.
a mechanic will be diagnosing it tommorow. Will update if i find sonething. I really appreciate ur assistance and sincere thanks.
 
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