Honda Accord 2008, clutch
#1
Honda Accord 2008, clutch
Hello friends,
Sorry for my english in the first place.
I have a Honda Accord 2008, 2.0 and have some problems with clutch. She have 150.000Km. I bought it after she staid about 1 year in garrage and first time, the gears switched very hard. After driving few days, the problem went away but not complete, I still have to press the pedal until end. Now I saw that pedal have hydraulic push like breaks but the guy from service said that it cannot do anything (like ventilate).
Since the clutch kit is quite expensive plus labor I am curious if I have to change all kit (most likely) or it can be just the pedal system.
Is it worth to but after market kit?
Thanks!
Sorry for my english in the first place.
I have a Honda Accord 2008, 2.0 and have some problems with clutch. She have 150.000Km. I bought it after she staid about 1 year in garrage and first time, the gears switched very hard. After driving few days, the problem went away but not complete, I still have to press the pedal until end. Now I saw that pedal have hydraulic push like breaks but the guy from service said that it cannot do anything (like ventilate).
Since the clutch kit is quite expensive plus labor I am curious if I have to change all kit (most likely) or it can be just the pedal system.
Is it worth to but after market kit?
Thanks!
#2
Sounds like your clutch is worn out, so yes, you'll need to replace the components (at least the throw-out bearing, pressure plate and clutch disk, and probably have the flywheel either resurfaced or replaced).
#3
I don't know, I guess it depends on what he's really saying. To me, his description sounds like the hydraulics, not the clutch disk.
Once you are driving, can you press the accelerator pedal and does the clutch slip? In other words, does the engine rev up to higher RPM without the actual car speeding up? That's a worn out clutch and you'll need the big expensive job.
A problem in the clutch hydraulic system would cause difficult shifting, grinding gears, etc. Just the same as if you had not pressed the clutch pedal far enough down.
How is the fluid level in the clutch master-cylinder reservoir?
Once you are driving, can you press the accelerator pedal and does the clutch slip? In other words, does the engine rev up to higher RPM without the actual car speeding up? That's a worn out clutch and you'll need the big expensive job.
A problem in the clutch hydraulic system would cause difficult shifting, grinding gears, etc. Just the same as if you had not pressed the clutch pedal far enough down.
How is the fluid level in the clutch master-cylinder reservoir?
#4
Hi Shipo,
I thought so. The mechanic from service told me that he can order LUK brand clutch but as far as I read on forums, can be a poor choice.
Other brands that I can get will be Valeo and Suchs (or something). Maybe order original part (I guess double priced)? What's your opinion?
Also I didn't know about flywheel, I never change this on my previous cars. It is included in so called "clutch kit"?
Now, the feeling is good if I press pedal to the bottom. Only on highway, when I try to gear down from 6 to 5, sometimes the 5'th refuse to enter or enter very hard.
Thanks!
I thought so. The mechanic from service told me that he can order LUK brand clutch but as far as I read on forums, can be a poor choice.
Other brands that I can get will be Valeo and Suchs (or something). Maybe order original part (I guess double priced)? What's your opinion?
Also I didn't know about flywheel, I never change this on my previous cars. It is included in so called "clutch kit"?
Now, the feeling is good if I press pedal to the bottom. Only on highway, when I try to gear down from 6 to 5, sometimes the 5'th refuse to enter or enter very hard.
Thanks!
#5
Just first time I got the car from standing a lot unused, the gears were switching very hard. After 2..3000Km, now switches fine except some glitches from 6 -> 5 or when I don't press until bottom the clutch pedal.
But my mechanic said "clutch kit" and I suspect has no ideea, there is no specialized Honda service.
I ask him to ventilate hydraulic system but he said it's not possible how come?
Last edited by zuzu; 10-14-2017 at 08:50 AM.
#6
Honda Accord 2008, clutch
You absolutely can bleed the clutch hydraulic system, and it sounds to me like that's what is needed. There's a bleed screw on the slave cylinder, which is on the front of the clutch case, about mid-height, between the radiator & the engine-trans assembly.
I can only find USA parts drawings, so I hope this is very similar... The 1st shows the clutch case, with a big square hole. That's covered by a rubber boot of some sort, and a lever coming out of it. The 2nd picture shows the clutch slave cylinder as #8, and it's piston pushes against that lever. The bleed screw is #1 on the drawing of the hydraulic system.
I'll try to find something I've written up in the past about bleeding the clutch.
I can only find USA parts drawings, so I hope this is very similar... The 1st shows the clutch case, with a big square hole. That's covered by a rubber boot of some sort, and a lever coming out of it. The 2nd picture shows the clutch slave cylinder as #8, and it's piston pushes against that lever. The bleed screw is #1 on the drawing of the hydraulic system.
I'll try to find something I've written up in the past about bleeding the clutch.
#7
#9
Looks good. The only thing they "forget" is the tendency for the pedal to stick to the floor (because of the "helper spring"). You have to pull it up, and if you let it snap quickly up it tends to suck air into the master cylinder.
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03-08-2011 11:50 AM