Honda SL3 bypass module
#32
So, is this a separate unlock wire from the alarm system? If so, this may work at Connector F, terminal no. 7 - Orn door unlock wire at the passenger side fuse box (referred to in my previous posts). The orange wire is the unlock wire coming from the front passenger door key cylinder switch. Different door key cylinder switch; but, may possibly accomplish the same thing. You can always try.
Edit: Thinking about it some more, it may not work if the multiplex control system needs the driver's door unlock signal instead.
Edit: Thinking about it some more, it may not work if the multiplex control system needs the driver's door unlock signal instead.
Last edited by redbull-1; 01-28-2015 at 03:15 PM.
#33
I just looked at some alarm wire references. For an EX, the blue wire at the driver's door key cylinder switch does need to be connected to the aftermarket alarm/remote's "factory alarm disarm" wire.
The blue unlock wire is at terminal no. 16 at Connector A (20-P light blue connector) at the driver's door multiplex control unit (MCU).
The blue unlock wire is at terminal no. 16 at Connector A (20-P light blue connector) at the driver's door multiplex control unit (MCU).
Last edited by redbull-1; 01-28-2015 at 03:50 PM.
#34
To route the "factory alarm disarm" wire through to the blue wire in the driver's door:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-32679/page4/
- Unplug one or more (depending on year and model trim) harness connectors from the driver's side fuse box (this gives more slack and room to route the wire through)
- pry the rubber boot/cover off at the door jamb
- fish the wire through the rubber boot and into the door
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-32679/page4/
#35
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but is this wire fooling the module into thinking the door is unlocked? Little confused as to why I would need to tie this wire inside the door if this fix is to allow the car to start with doors locked without alarming.
#36
Here is a link to the tip sheet if that helps any.
http://www.mypushcart.com/help/T3015...SL3-2-SPDT.pdf
http://www.mypushcart.com/help/T3015...SL3-2-SPDT.pdf
#37
The factory alarm arms and disarms with the door on EX models. The alarm can be disarmed at any time by unlocking either door with the key or remote transmitter.
It sounds like the factory alarm may get tripped when you activate the remote starter. It appears the purpose of hooking up that wire is to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors; by giving a negative pulse to the car's blue wire in the driver's door.
See this other wiring guide I found on the web:
http://alarmsellout.com/support/diag...01985-2005.pdf
The blue wire is the unlock wire for the driver's door key cylinder switch that goes to the driver's door multiplex control unit (MCU). Normally when unlocking the door with the key, the key cylinder switch closes and send a ground to the MCU.
It appears the aftermarket alarm is able to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors.
************************************************** **
The following is a partial description of the factory security system:
Security Alarm System
The security alarm system is armed automatically after
the doors, hood, and trunk lid are closed and locked.
For the system to arm, the ignition switch must be off,
the key must be removed, and the security control unit
must receive signals that the doors, hood, and trunk lid
are closed and locked. The alarm can be disarmed at
any time by unlocking either door with the key or the
remote transmitter.
When everything is closed and locked, the only control
unit inputs that are grounded, and have 0 volts, are the
driver's door lock **** switch, and the audio unit. In
other words, all of the other switches are open,
including the key cylinder switches, and they have
about 10 volts. Ten seconds after the doors are locked
with the key or the lock **** (with the door open), or
immediately after the doors are locked with the LOCK
button on the remote transmitter, the security system
arms, and the security indicator on the door panel
flashes. If the security indicator does not flash, the
system is not arming. Check the doors, hood, and trunk
to see if they are closed. A beep to confirm the security
alarm system is armed will sound if the LOCK button is
pressed a second time within 5 seconds.
If one of the switches is misadjusted or there is a short
in the system, the system will not arm. As long as the
control unit continues to receive a ground signal, it
senses that the vehicle is not closed and locked, and
the system will not arm. Conversely, a switch that is
slightly misadjusted can sound an alarm for no
apparent reason. In this case, a significant change in
outside temperature, the vibration of a passing truck, or
someone bumping into the vehicle could cause the
alarm to sound.
If anything is opened or improperly unlocked after the
system is armed, the control unit receives a ground
signal from that switch, and the 10 volts reference
drops to 0 volts. If the radio is disconnected, the input
loses its ground, and the input voltage goes to 10 volts.
The system sounds the alarm when any of these things
occur:
• A door is forced open
• A door is unlocked without using the key or the
remote transmitter
• The hood is opened
• The trunk is opened without using the transmitter
• The audio unit is disconnected
• The panic mode is activated
When the system sounds the alarm, the security horn
sounds and the exterior lights flash for 2 minutes. The
alarm can be stopped at any time by unlocking either
door with the key or by pushing any button on the
remote transmitter.
It sounds like the factory alarm may get tripped when you activate the remote starter. It appears the purpose of hooking up that wire is to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors; by giving a negative pulse to the car's blue wire in the driver's door.
See this other wiring guide I found on the web:
http://alarmsellout.com/support/diag...01985-2005.pdf
The blue wire is the unlock wire for the driver's door key cylinder switch that goes to the driver's door multiplex control unit (MCU). Normally when unlocking the door with the key, the key cylinder switch closes and send a ground to the MCU.
It appears the aftermarket alarm is able to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors.
************************************************** **
The following is a partial description of the factory security system:
Security Alarm System
The security alarm system is armed automatically after
the doors, hood, and trunk lid are closed and locked.
For the system to arm, the ignition switch must be off,
the key must be removed, and the security control unit
must receive signals that the doors, hood, and trunk lid
are closed and locked. The alarm can be disarmed at
any time by unlocking either door with the key or the
remote transmitter.
When everything is closed and locked, the only control
unit inputs that are grounded, and have 0 volts, are the
driver's door lock **** switch, and the audio unit. In
other words, all of the other switches are open,
including the key cylinder switches, and they have
about 10 volts. Ten seconds after the doors are locked
with the key or the lock **** (with the door open), or
immediately after the doors are locked with the LOCK
button on the remote transmitter, the security system
arms, and the security indicator on the door panel
flashes. If the security indicator does not flash, the
system is not arming. Check the doors, hood, and trunk
to see if they are closed. A beep to confirm the security
alarm system is armed will sound if the LOCK button is
pressed a second time within 5 seconds.
If one of the switches is misadjusted or there is a short
in the system, the system will not arm. As long as the
control unit continues to receive a ground signal, it
senses that the vehicle is not closed and locked, and
the system will not arm. Conversely, a switch that is
slightly misadjusted can sound an alarm for no
apparent reason. In this case, a significant change in
outside temperature, the vibration of a passing truck, or
someone bumping into the vehicle could cause the
alarm to sound.
If anything is opened or improperly unlocked after the
system is armed, the control unit receives a ground
signal from that switch, and the 10 volts reference
drops to 0 volts. If the radio is disconnected, the input
loses its ground, and the input voltage goes to 10 volts.
The system sounds the alarm when any of these things
occur:
• A door is forced open
• A door is unlocked without using the key or the
remote transmitter
• The hood is opened
• The trunk is opened without using the transmitter
• The audio unit is disconnected
• The panic mode is activated
When the system sounds the alarm, the security horn
sounds and the exterior lights flash for 2 minutes. The
alarm can be stopped at any time by unlocking either
door with the key or by pushing any button on the
remote transmitter.
#39
Well...it was a long road, but it is finished. Very tedious and nerve testing, and without your help it would have been even worse. I learned a lot while doing this project. Most importantly is paying attention to details. I made several mistakes by getting in a hurry and not reading materials thoroughly. This a common problem I face daily, got to learn to slow down a bit. Even though with all that said...I am proud of what I accomplished. I love this forum and the people that help.
On to something else I suppose,,,,,,
On to something else I suppose,,,,,,