New member, my first post and apologies if this is a FAQ but I searched and didn't see anything.

I have a 2010 Accord LX-P four-door in which I replaced the window regulator after the driver window switch broke. It's an aftermarket Amazon wonder, but it works and was about 1/4 the price of the Honda part. Anyway, I reset the regulator and it works correctly, including auto-up and auto-down with the buttons. But when I lock the car with the windows down, they all roll up automatically after a couple of seconds. I often like to leave crocked, given I live in (HOT!) Louisiana.

Is this a consequence of the non-Honda part or have I not yet uttered the appropriate reset incantation? I definitely could leave them down and locked before...

Actually, although I've owned this car for 13 years, it wasn't until I started researching this issue that I even knew I could use the key fob to lower / raise the windows. Wow. But I'll give up that (up to now, unused) ability if it means I can keep them down with the car locked. I just want auto mode from inside with the ability to lock the doors with the windows cracked.

Thanks!

 

The windows shouldn't go up according to the shop manual. I'm guessing you did the relearn procedure where you had the driver's door open, window down, and held window switch down, turned key off, turned key on, then released power window down then repeated 3 more times to get the auto up/down to work properly?

 

Yes, I did that but (aside from the auto-up issue which I discovered later) it worked correctly as far as I could tell immediately after replacement, prior to resetting. I didn't even research nor try reset until I realized they were rolling up when locked. Prior to that all normal ops seemed correct.

The regulator I bought doesn't have auto mode for the passenger window on the driver's door (like the original one did) but of course the passenger side door still does. Given the regulator has an IC, etc., it could be internally / firmware different. Who knows. To be honest, at the end of the say considering the cost difference between it and OEM ($45 shipped vs. ~$175 plus shipping) on this 13 year old / 159k miles car I would've still bought the Amazon wonder. Is this simply a consequence of the aftermarket regulator? Hope not but if so it's not the end of the world. However, I'd like to exhaust all possibilities just the same.

If I can't find out anything else, I'll call my auto shop and see what they have to say.

...all of this just essentially to replace the ABS housing where two little pivot points broke under the drivers side switch. Everything else on the old regulator is still OK.

Thanks!

 

One additional detail - I used this reset procedure (which my mechanic confirmed) and the regulator apparently doesn't reset. Auto up / down are still working as of step 10. I've tried it holding the button in normal down AND auto down positions, just for giggles. Maybe it's my third party part...

Oh well.