My CEL is on and no one can read the code. The reader is not getting any response when they plug it in. I have had it read before and it worked just fine. Then i replaced the front o2 sensor, clenaed the EGR Ports, and even got it emmisioned (it passed, but said my catalyst system was not ready). A few days after that the light came on again. This was 600 miles after i had reset the ecu for the changes i made. Ohh, the a/c is also disconnected cause the clutch locked up. could that cause it? I dont know if this means anything but the light will dim every once in a while, never go out, just dim slightly. Any info will be greatly appreciated. The car runs fine, but i hate the CEL being on.

 

Year, Model, Trim, Engine? <--- goes in your signature

 

97 Accord LX 2.2 Non Vtec, Mostly stock cept for header and suspension.

 

Use the "manual method" of grabbing your CEL codes. http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/
There's a obd1 equivalent for most obd2 codes.

You may have a damaged Obd2 connector, or perhaps the code reader was not functioning. It depends whether the code reader communicates but found no code, or did not establish comms. You might try another code reader.

good luck

 

Thank you for that. I didn not know you could do that on OBD2. I found the connector and jumped it and the CEL flashed 8 times. From that site you gave me, that means that is is something with the ign. coil or TDC? Now the only term i know TDC to stand for is Top Dead Center.

 

You're probably going toneed a manual to run this to ground. Download the 94-97 Accord manual from hondahookup.com. Code 8 indicates a fault in the Top Dead Center Sensor (TDC). Note, this is not a replaceable part per Honda manual (replace entire distributor). On the F22B2 non-vtec engine (yours I think), you disconnect the 8 wire connector to the distributor and check resistance between pts 3-7 on the distributor side connector. This is where you need the manual to identfy the 3-7 positions on the connector. If you hold the connector latch up and look at connector, the 3-7 pts are the 3rd column of 4, w/ 3 directly over 7. Resistance should be 350-700 ohms.

Options for a replacement distributor are ebay, local salvage yard (check car-part.com for parts near you), or a new OEM part ($$).

good luck

 

Thank you for all your help. Atleast it is fixable. I know i guy were i can get a distributor pretty cheap. I will test it out tonight and verify. Atlease it not an egr or o2 sensor (Which are the two things i ha djust replaced).

 

One more question though. What if there were mulitple codes? Right now it flashes eight times, pauses for a few seconds then flashes eight times again. I am guessing that if there were mulitple codes it would flash a different number of time after it pauses right?

 

Your guess is right. If it had a code 8 and a code 21, you would see 8 quick flashes, pause, 2 long flashes, one quick flash, pause. Then it would start over.