im new to the forums - and need help
 

i bought a honda from a friend of mine cuz i needed something with beter gas mileage than my v8 f150. he tells me i can buy his car but it needs work.......

he blew the engine in it and it sat in the drive way for a while until he got a new engine for it, now i have the car at my garage and i have no clue what bolt goes where or what bracket this goes to cuz he put everything in a bucket! its like working a jigsaw puzzle when u dont know what the picture is supposed to be. the engine is in the car and all im trying to do is bolt everything back up and run all hoses and vacuum lines. just dont know what bolt or bracket is supposed to be used. i dont want to get everything back together and have left over parts or bolts lying around.

i need some major help on this issue if anyone can

the car is a 1997 honda accord two door with a 4cyl in the car.
i dont know the year model the new engine came from
i do know that the engine is a 2.2 (non vtec i think)
automatic tranny

Welcome!
But you should probably post in the General Tech section to get a better answer. Use a very descriptive thread title. This place is just for introductions. Don't forget to say auto-or-manual tranny. There's other people better than me for engine-swap questions.

It will be important for us to know what year the replacement engine came from too.

Hello New Member
 

Welcome and please read where to post your messages..

Thank You for posting..I will move it for you!

|WheelBrokerAng

well i did repost it in the tech help section so could you delete one of these posts so there is not any duplicates?

You should buy the car manual for starters, that will be one step in the right direction.

You can download a 94 shop manual from links in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section. The differences between the 94 and 97 engine are pretty minor.

The only way we would be able to help you out is by having you post pictures of what part you are dealing with. Also a picture of the engine bay may help as well, so we would know where you are starting at.

As for bolt sizes, that will be tough. hondapartsdeals.com will tell you how many identical bolts are required for each part. You may want to group bolts that are identical to help organize everything.

ok i do have the chilton/haynes book. but it doesnt tell me which bolt goes to what, ill have pics of the engine bay as it sits in a lil bit.

here are the pics

Attachment 1242

Attachment 1243

Attachment 1244

Attachment 1245

Attachment 1246

It looks like most of the major stuff is installed (fuel rail, distributor, throttle body).

The air intake and the radiator hoses need to be installed.

Why don't you post some pics of the parts you have to install as well.

ill see if i can get those posted soon, just need vacuum hoses and ignition set up to get it ready to fire

Sorry Angelo, I asked him to repost & add some more information about his car. Looks like you already deleted the duplicate??

the engine that i have put in the car is just temp. the old one is being rebuilt all performance and im shopping now for other parts like the coil overs and header and skunk2 exaust. im looking for the conversion kit to change the rear drum brakes to disc.....anyone know of one?

That rear-disk conversion consists of getting all the parts from an Accord EX. You probably have to even get the rear knuckles, I think(?) they're different.

ok thanks

ok i now have the engine in and everything that i see computer wise connected and all vacuum hoses ran, i got in to see if i could get the car to start for the first time with this engine and all i got was click...click...click...click...i put an industrial battery jumper on the car and got the same thing. i think im missing something electrical? any ideas?

Check that the two electrical connections to the starter are on there securely. Also check that all ends of both battery cables are on securely.

If they are on tight, then have someone try to start the car. See if the click is coming from the starter. Usually you only have one click if it is the solenoid. If the click is from the starter, have the person hold the key in the start position and moderately hit the end of the starter with a screwdriver. If the starter turns the engine, then you will have to replace the starter solenoid.

ok, ill try this tomorrow since it is dark already. i was told about an ignition trigger?? it looks like a bolt with a wire in the middle of it that is supposed to scan the fly wheel to measure timing?? i dont really know i was just told about it....is that a possibility? if its not the starter, any other ideas?

The obd2 hondas have a sensor mounted by the timing belt that picks up the crank shaft in a way that you are describing.

Is your check engine light on? You can hook up an obd2 scanner to the connector behind the ash tray. You may be able to short a service connector under the passenger dash and read the codes that way. Just use a thin paper clip. In know the 94/95 accords have that, and I think that the 96/97 accords have it too.

See: http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html

Do you know what year the donor engine came from? That sensor was moved from the distributor in the 94/95 to the engine block in the 96/97

PA, that's all true, it's important to match the set of sensors to what the ECU wants to see. But all those sensors will NOT prevent the starter from spinning the engine.

i have a 1997 honda accord SE coupe
2.2L non vtec engine
automatic transmission

donor engine came from a 1997 honda accord

my friend took his stereo out of the car so there is nothing in it at the moment(i dont know if this matters or not)

i dont see anything that looks like an ignition trigger or a place to mount it on the block

when i turn the key the check engine light isnt on but it says the car is in drive (d4) and the shifter is in park......not sure whats going on there???

ill take a picture of the dash cluster to show u waht all lights are on when i turn the key

Attachment 1283

this is what im seeing

First thing to fix is the starter circuit. Maybe left some wire disconnected at the starter? The starter circuit is big dumb electricity. No sensors. No intervention by any computers.

It just clicks when you try to start... Where is that click sound located?

near the starter, i turned my battery charger to the highest jump start setting and the engine turned over a lil bit and then went to clicking. i do know the battery is flat and needs to be replaced(just pulled the voltage on it) so im looking a new one up now at autozone.com. after that im going to check all the connections and wires

Classic for dead battery. What's interesting is that it still does it when you try jump-starting it.

Maybe your battery has gone to a short-circuit. All the juice from the charger/jump-battery is going into your battery so nothing left to run the starter. Try removing your battery completely & connect any old battery. No need for it to physically fit, just make sure the cables don't drop across any metal stuff.

the battery is supposed to be 12 volts but its not even pulling 8. its toast. so its 90 dollars for a new one and i have to wait till payday, but i have done an engine swap by myself in a week with a chilton book and this forum for help, so im pretty pleased.

hopefully ill get to start it next week(no old batteries)

ok, i found out the battery was bad so i got a new one tonight, i put insulators on the terminals and cleaned everything up. i hooked up the terminals and tried to fire it up. didnt work the first time but it turned over very nice. it fired on the second time tho. when i started it tho it revved up and then died...thought it was just that it hasnt been ran in a long time, started it again and i got to stay running then it went to idle and ran pretty good. i dont hear any knocking or hissing or any sound that i shouldnt hear but the check engine light is on. when i start it u have to keep ur foot on the gas for about 30 seconds and then it will idle by itself, i dont want to drive it anywhere to get the codes read but out of this info is there anything u guys know that i should check or clean or anything i should do to see if i can get it to run a lil smoother?


oh autozone tested the old battery and it pulled 2.76 volts on a 26r-dl duralast battery. i have an even bigger battery now, hehe

http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html

Use a thin paper clip to jump the connector. Count the check engine light flashes to get the codes.

ok, i know the cv axels are not in all the way so that was one of my codes. i dunno the others. but i have a couple of pictures that i need to post.


i need to know where this bolts to........

does anyone know where this goes?

The CV axles can't possibly cause a CEL. There's no sensors for the ECU to "know" about them. What error codes are you getting?

No I don't recognize that bracket. Maybe for fan relays...?

yea it has the plugs for the fans and ac compressor but i just need to know where it bolts to

It looks kinda similar to #10 but this picture doesn't show real well EXACTLY where it bolts on.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13SV20_B05.gif

it looks like it bolts straight on the the fan with the bolt from #11

im looking to get an cold air intake from aem.....i just dont know what the size i need or with style? im looking at this one: 4.0 Dryflow Air Filter Shot Neck 9" Element 1" Pleat. is this the right one or not? if not anyone have any suggestions?