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Inherited my fathers 05 V6 EX need help- new honda owner

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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:29 PM
  #11  
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both fans do come on at the same time the temperate gauge while park gets to half way while idleing when driving it is a little above a quarter i found out this mourning my radiator cap is broke it came apart when i took it off to check the level of the antifreeze. the level is good i dont know if that would cause that though but i just bought a new today bought a new one.

could it be the water pump not putting out enough pressure.
 
Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:31 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
If you're in a warm climate, it's sorta normal. When you're driving there's plenty of air moving through the radiator. Then the temperature stays down around 30% or 40% of the gauge.

Idling, the temperature gets hotter, and the electric radiator-fans don't come on until the temperature guage gets around 50% or a little more. The fan switch isn't set like a hair-trigger - the gauge will go up enough to notice.

- Do BOTH of the fans run when it gets warm idling?

- How high does the gauge get? Does it ever get close to the top?
both fans do come on at the same time the temperate gauge while park gets to half way while idleing when driving it is a little above a quarter i found out this mourning my radiator cap is broke it came apart when i took it off to check the level of the antifreeze. the level is good i dont know if that would cause that though but i just bought a new today bought a new one.

could it be the water pump not putting out enough pressure.
 
Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:56 PM
  #13  
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No, if the gauge goes up to 50% while idling, rather than staying about 30% while driving, that's normal.

You need to fix the broken radiator cap, but that's not gonna change the normal behavior of the temperature.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 06:47 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by brandon9686
could it be the water pump not putting out enough pressure.
Nope. Water pumps either work or they leak; simple as that.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #15  
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Thanks for all of the input guys. long story short is, i went ahead and pulled off the wheels to take a look to see if any bends were visible in the tie rods, or any other visible problems with bushings, anti roll bar etc.

What i had found was the brake caliper somehow had one of the mounts snapped off. i know this is irrelivant to the questoions i had posted, however, im going to do all of this work at once. also, i have noticed a crack in the brake line from the fender liner to the caliper, the rubber brake line section, along with the upper and bottom ball joints being smashed apart. look slike i had more than an alignment problem after all

I am going to go ahead this afternoon and order my parts:

this is what i need, and if anyone has any input on a part i have forgotten please feel free to add, also i need advice on tool needed to replace the rubber brake line from fender liner to caliper.

So it goes liek this:

1. Upper control arm ( broken caliper bracket)
2.Caliper
3. Pads
4. Upper and lower BJ
5. Brake Line
6. wheel bearing
7. Rotor

Geeeeez expensive fix

and brake fluid to bleed system afterwards. if anyone can show my proper bleeding techniquies specific to this car itd be great, or do i just use farther caliper from master cylinder to closest? right rear left rear right front left front method?

Also, any ideas where id get the cheapest rate on parts. just oem replacement?
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 01:55 PM
  #16  
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im in Newmarket Ontario if that helps for any locals on advice for shops. usually i just go to Napa but can they supply control arms and vehicle specific parts?
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 04:32 PM
  #17  
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I think upper balljoints are incorporated in the upper control arms & not separately.

Make sure your calipers come with their caliper brackets (if that's what broke). Caliper braket is the part that bolts to the knuckle and holds the slide pins. Not sure if they ALWAYS are included?

Get a line-wrench for the brake lines. Don't know the sizes offhand, but it's easy to round em off with an open-end wrench. Line wrench looks like a box-end wrench with an opening cut through so you can put it over the tube.

Bleeding order is LF - RF - RR - LR. The system bleeds right through the ABS modulator so you don't need to do any separate bleeding for the ABS (like you have to on older Accords).

Don't know ANYTHING about parts suppliers in Canada. Only horror stories about delays & expenses of customs etc crossing the border.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #18  
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Haha i laughed about the customs thing, ive dealt with many a headaches with customs, im just new to this car.

thanks for the advice with the braking system.

yes, i believe on these cars the upper ball is built into the control arm, unfortunately , arhh.

My accord is an 05' and it is the system that the caliper mounts right onto the steering knucle, by two half moon shaped mounting brackets, and they are built into the steering knuckle. atleast they are on mine?

Ive got it all apart and im having a hell of a time removing the wheel bearing from the knucle though, anybody have any tips, and yes i do have a great 60 gall gen with all the accessories, im just trying to save the bearing without wacking it to much, so i can re use it. or, does the knuckle come with a bearing?

i havent looked into much i spent the day today pulling it all apart.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #19  
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Here are some pictures for any help that you guys have, the brake line needs replacing right at the joiner i have attached a photo of. The bearing needs to be pulled, im just trying to avoid buying a puller lol.

Also, does the abs sensor come as a whole assembly, sensor and wiring or just sensor? ill have to solder a small 2" peice if not, as the abs sensor was corroded in the steering knuckle.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 05_accord
Hi all, so long story short, is my father passed away in January and i inherited his car.
My local Honda dealer offers a 'new car inspection service' for cheap, like $30 - 40. Maybe your dealer does too.


New owner ends up with a laundry list of what they see as needing repair; was worth the cost...
 



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