This is gonna get expensive. But you've done a bit part of the job by dismantling the suspension.

First picture (img192) shows the steering knuckle is broken.
Don't bother with the wheel bearing. Press the hub out - that's the part that spins, with the wheel lug studs. Pressing it out will likely destroy the bearing.

New steering knuckle. New wheel bearing. Without a press, you might want to find a shop that will do the pressing if you bring in the parts.

Your 2nd picture (img200) shows the caliper bracket is still attached to the caliper. But the broken tabs from the steering knuckle are still bolted to the caliper bracket.

Also shows that the piston is blown out from the cylinder. You might want to get a new/rebuilt caliper just because I bet the inner surface of the cylinder has been scored up. That caliper would be OK as a core to return. It's the steering knuckle that's actually broken.

 

Not sure what's happenning in the 3rd picture. I guess it shows the torn boot on the steering rack? Or maybe that's a shadow?

Fourth picture: Make sure you don't pull the inboard CV joint apart on the axle. The only thing holding it together right now is the rubber boot.

Fifth picture: Soak that whole lump in something better than WD-40. PB-Blaster is good, so it Kroil or Liquid Wrench. After a day of that, use some kind of small pry bar to remove the flat spring clip from the plate in the middle.

I think you're gonna throw away the rubber hose part? That includes most of the steel lump in the middle. Use a line-wrench on the small nut at the top, but you can use a visegrip or something crude on the big part of the fitting. Then straighten the bracket for the new parts.

Inside the box marked #1 in the picture, is the brake hose & attachment stuff.

 

Hi Jim, thanks for all the help. i successfully installed the upper control arm, Caliper & rotor ,brake line and ABS sensor, alone with the new lower ball joint and i bought a steering knee (knuckle) from a wreckers with a good hub and wheel bearing.

Ive got it all assembled and i bled the new put new wheels on the car with new tires.

However, now ive run into another problem. I put all wheels on the car and didnt notice this until i had the car on the ground. The wheel is sitting with a large toe in and im not sure the issue, i tried adjusting the tie rod steering rack, whatever you shall call it, but its seized on there and i heated it up with setaline and still, no budge. im going to take a picture of the assembly put together and the huge toe in on the car.

what are the chances i just need an alignment, i follow proper installation steps so i couldnt see it being a mis installation. everything looks great, besides the wheel sits witha huge toe in and i drove it down the road and its not a little alignment issue its pretty bad.

Is this just normal alignment issues when you do this much work? along with the new wheels and tires? pics i will post in 20 minutes or so

 

You need an alignment with the new knuckle.

Is the junkyard knuckle from the right year?? Starting in 1998 the knuckle LOOKS the same but every few years they change angles & dimensions. Check carpart dot com for different years with the same knuckle.

 

So, i managed to crack that seized bolt earlier today, i went to far in with the tie rod, so i pulled wheel off once again and finally, i hung up the string method for an alignment and tadda, after 2 1/2 days of pulling parts, ordering, getting new wheels, i have the car back up and running once again !!!!! the tierod needed just a few threads inward and it was pretty close, close enough for a road car, i have no plans at all to track my dads old accord, so im happy lol

However, i had done some other small fine tuning which included cleaning up the terminal posts on the battery, when i hooked them back up, and turned on the car, all im getting on the screen is code, it literally only says CODE. nothing else, i cant get fm or am or cd or anything! do i have the reset the battery?

ill see what other threads i can find on that topic if i dont hear back from you soon. im in no hurry for that but ughh, after all that i wanted to take a drive, and yuppers, no tunes. yay!

THanks again Jimblake for all your help and advice to make this process a little quicker and easier. i will upload the pictures i said i would earlier, but tomorrow. and a final picture of the alignment before and after, with before pictures you can clearly see the toe in.

 

The code is a security feature for the factory stereo. You just enter the code on the preset channel buttons, so the codes have numbers 1-6 and it think it is five or six digits.

Look for a sticker on the side of the glove box with the code. Also look in the owners manual for the number written down or on a plastic card.

You can also register on the honda owners link, then you can get the radio code that way.

You can stop by the dealership to get the code. Just bring ID and proof of ownership. You might want to call ahead and ask what information they would need.

 

Thank you PAhonda, ill try the glovebox or manual first, seems as to be the easiest/ quickest way!

 

That code might be written almost anywhere. Honda didn't do that, but each dealer probably has their own favorite place to hide the code. Originally it came on a plastic card (credit-card-size) in the owner's manual bundle.

It might cost you at the dealer, but that's probably labor to remove the stereo & read its serial#.

I'd register at www dot ahm-ownerlink dot com with the car's VIN & look it up that way.

 

Hi all, so i found the card in my dads pile of reciepts and manuals etc.

Radio is up and functioning, thank you.

Ill start another thread soon as i plan to tackle all the little issues on the car, so i can have this car in the family as long as possible.

one last question, my father had kept a reciept for the timing belt. Now, i guess he had the belt replaces, but the reciept is only for $394, and it just doesnt make sense to me. Im thinking ill call the place because alot of these reciepts were from the same place. My dad was not mechanically inclined and he always just brought his car to a shop, for some odd reason he didnt trust me to wrench on it :S sry pops, but shes all fixed now

it just doesnt add up for a timing belt replacement to only cost $394 because i know most shops will charge alot more for labor, more than 394 for labor alone. Ot, are Honda belts easily accessible, and this is correct?

 

No, $400 sounds suspicously low. If he ALWAYS went to that shop, & they liked him & always gave him a good deal; and besides we don't know where you're located?? Labor rates vary A HUGE AMOUNT in different parts of the country.