I didn't mean to give you bad luck , just wanted to give you a warning that they (the two o-rings) are the same age so the other one going is just a matter of time.

As you will see in the video's, the rear caliper pistons on these "screw in". So you'll need to buy/rent a tool - or use some other large "flat head" screwdriver type of thing (many people have used different things, before I had a tool for it I used the flat head of a big pry bar) - to screw the rear pistons back into the caliper. If you have to replace the pads, be sure to get the "nub"/tab on the back of the pad into the groove of the piston.

 

Thanks poorman. I took of the passenger wheels and the grinding noise was actually a crap load of Cinders that got stuck in the dust guard area. I then bled the brakes and that weird squeak in the passenger rest went away. Rotors and pads looked good all the way around. But in my wrenching I found a crack in the exhaust right before it goes to the cat. So I gotta have that welded.

Always something !!

Happy new year everyone.

 

Yes, it does always seem to be something. Me and the 89 LXi are about to have a knock down, drag out over a code 12 (EGR)....but that is my own issue.

Happy New Year to you as well, hope Christmas went well for you and family.

Glad the noise was a simple fix. The exhaust might be throwing off the MPG a bit, so when you can have it taken care of.

 

What's the problem you're having with your EGR? And my Christmas and New Years was very nice! For Christmas I got a sweet Kobalt 300lb battery operated impact gun. Takes off lug nuts and big bolts with ease! Makes life SOO much easier.

 

I get a random code for the egr.....maybe once every two/three months. The CEL trips, get home and do all the testing and it tests fine. Shut the car off and restart....no code, clear it and wait......hummm (grounds cables are clean enough to eat off of, contacts/connectors test out and are sealed, all other tests show good ). I'm almost to the point of replacing the egr and lift sensor but I hate to guess with ~$75.

Glad the holidays were good to you. Take care and try to stay warm......I'm cold here, its like 40 outside but I'm a wimp when it comes to cold....I'd rather it be 100 but it is all up to what you are use to.

 

Haha 40 degrees?? Woosy!! I had to change my vtec gasket and water outlet gasket in 22 degree weather with a wind chill in the single digits. But hard work pays off and the car is leak free! But yesterday I did find out the down pipe that curves under the engine has a tiny crack in it. The crack is right under the motor where the bracket attaches to the exhaust. Took it to Midas they quoted me $369 lol. I laughed at them and walked out. Any suggestion on where I can get a good used part to replace out when the weather warms up?

 

Hey, as I said....I can't take cold....give me hot and humid and I'm good.

For the part - you can try "car-part dot com" for used. From there you might even try e-bay or something for a new one and gaskets......then again another muffler shop and ~$20 cash and they might weld it for you . If I'm following the description that part of the pipe is still kind of thick so a weld will hold for some time....as long as the mounts and other exhaust brackets are in proper order.

Again, pretty sure (too tired to look right now...hope you understand) that the description of the crack is before the O2....meaning you are leaving some performance/MPG's on the table.

Going on memory (that is code for lord help us). From the front of the cat towards the engine. There is a short pipe (mid pipe) maybe around 6~8 inches long where the O2 is. Then it bolts to the "down pipe", about 2~3 inches forward of the bolt flange is a "two bolt bracket"...this is the bracket/hanger that I think you are speaking of and the loacation of the crack.

 

Poorman, I'm uploading a pic now of exactly where the crack is...

Give me 10 minutes max.

 

Ok here is where the crack is and also where I have a bad/leaky gasket.



On a side note...I have a question about my auto transmission. When the transmission is cold the tranny does not like it. 1st to 2nd gear is smooth. 2nd to third is a little clunky, but 3rd to 4th, when the car is cold is odd. The tranny will stick and not want to switch, then once it decides to switch into 4th, it will rev up a few hundred RPM then switch into 4th. However once the car is warmed up, it's fine. All gears switch smoothly. I am running Castrol ATF fluid which I am hoping that's my problem. Or is it inevitable my tranny is going bad

 

Ok, just me but the exhaust is what I thought.

The crack, if you can't find a shop to weld then you'll need to find a replacement....and new gaskets.....you should be good from there. And that is before the O2 so you should see an improvement in the MPG.

On the trans...again just me. Too many times I've seen/read about "cold shift" issues where non-Honda trans fluid is being used. IMHO, correct the source of your trans leak...then invest in Honda trans fluid (go for a case as the price break and the amount I would use). From there do a drain and fill - up to three - cycles of the trans fluid. You could do one drain and fill each weekend for up to three weeks. Again this is my opinion....others might have something else to say.