I took a look at that diagram, but I am not sure I have all those parts on my car. According to the diagram you included, the EGR valve is hooked up correctly coming off the fuel rail vacuum line, but I dont see the other egr parts that are more towards the passenger side of the car. As I said before, the original motor that blew up was a 94 f22b1 motor. The motor I bought I am positive is a 96 or above because it has the cam sensor inside the timing cover. On my car, we accounted for every connector/sensor and everything plugged in as it did on the old motor.

Would the fact that when the headgasket went and put water all up in the intake and throttle body and everything, be the problem? When we took the old motor apart to do the swap, water came pouring out of the air intake boot, throttle body, etc...

I am having my friend look at the wires now on the TPS. The car is not at my place, it's at my buddies. OTher than the weird idle and hesitation issue, the engine sounds and runs awesome! Under WOT the car pulls like a mother!

 

In addition to the idle problem, I almost found out today that the 1 after run fan, stuck on last night after we were done with the car and ended up running all night and eventually draining the battery. Any reason why it would stick on?

 

Hi poorman, here is a pic of the wires that are connected to my TPS and also a pic of the wires connected to my EGR valve. I also mentioned above that my after run fan decided to stick on last night and drain my battery...

TPS Sensor


EGR Sensor


Hope this helps... Thanks!

 

Ideas anyone? (See posts above)

I'm going to clean the EGR system this week...

 

The wire colors look correct (for the throttle position sensor) in that picture.

The EGR controls are on the driver's side of the engine bay.

 

I talked to the previous owner(s) today and they both said the car idled fine and there was now low to medium hesitation/surging as shown in the video above. So, I am assuming when she blew the head gasket and water got up into the top end, including the air intake, and TB, that something got hosed up. I am also assuming that water/crud/oil may have gotten into the EGR system.

 

Did you ever check for engine codes?

 

As PA asked, is it giving any codes?

The controls that run the egr are on the "fender" of the car - on/near the strut tower - so the motor year diff is not in play....the OE vac lines have numbers on them.

Plug the solenoid - electrical connector back in. Start the car, check the vac line to the egr valve....does it have vac on it? I'm thinking there is a vac line crossed somewhere that is allowing vac to the egr valve when it should not be.

Be sure the air is out of the cooling system....the bleed bolt in the pic has rust on it and doesn't look (?) like a wrench has been on it.

 

Example of where my head is at, ok lets not go there as I'm not sure where my head is at most of the time. In this pic if those two vac lines are crossed, then vac would be on the egr at idle....that is a bad thing.

EDIT: I know tracing that metal "spider" under/around the fuel injectors is a PIA but please double check them.

 

I am pulling the codes tomorrow. Will be my 1st time pulling OBD1 codes. I will also be checking all the vac stuff tomorrow. Which bleed bolt are you referring to?