What ever it takes....

Not sure on the "injector" plug you speak of........got any pic's? Or # of wires and their color?

Jim is dead on when it comes to the "other" one.....use your dist and wire harness....tape that plug off if it seems to be close to anything that might hit it.

 

Ok, this has gone WAY passed new member stuff

I've moved it to hear so it should get faster answers to you tech questions.

 

Hey everyone!

First, thanks poorman for moving this to the general tech help thread.

Ok, so today we got everything screwed, bolted, and bunkered down. Hooked up all the sensors, batted down all the hatches and fired the motor over.

At first, the motor started just fine, but it wanted to stall out unless you played with the throttle. Then, if you gave it some throttle the motor would hesitate constantly until you then mashed the gas, then it would rev up and sound ok.

The video below shows how the motor sounded on initial start-up, with all sensors plugged in and vacuum lines connected.


Then, to stabilize the idle issue we disconnected the part circled in the picture yellow below and sealed off the vacuum. We also unplugged the solenoid circled in the pic below in blue and looped the hoses back into the fuel injector rail.




The car then idled perfectly, but at low to medium throttle the car would then hesitate and the rpm's jumped up and down from 1200 to 2000, and up and down and up and down! This video below shows us messing with the vacuum lines and how it idled and also how the throttle jumps all over, even when holding the throttle at a constant place. Pardon my friends hand in the way. He was holding the throttle at a steady place.


Also, just to add, the car is a '94 Accord EX. The original motor was blown so I swapped in an engine I bought in the picture below. I used my old intake/throttle body and bolted it on to the used motor f22b1 motor I bought.



Every sensor was hooked back up except this motor has the cam sensor in the timing chain cover, my current set up now is obd1 (1994). Is there something I am doing wrong or missed? Could the TPS be going bad on me? A hunch I have is the TPS went bad because the lady who had the car before me, drove the car til it overheated beyond belieft. When we removed the throttle body and air intake boot, water came pouring out! So, I am tending to think the water getting into the intake and what not, ruined the TPS sensor.

 

The part in yellow is your egr valve and if its not working properly it will cause hesitation at low to mid Range rpm

 

If this was my car, I would hook up the vacuum lines properly. Pull the backup/radio fuse (7.5 amp fuse in engine bay fuse box) for a minute to erase ECU codes.

Start the engine, and see if the check engine light turns on. See the common DIY thread for a procedure to check engine codes.

You may have an air leak. Check all of the vacuum lines. You may have a vacuum leak. Watch this video on how to check for vacuum leaks.

 

Thanks for the great info everyone. At one point, all the vacuum lines were hooked up and the car still ran bad. It would barely idle, and then when the throttle was pushed from low to mid range, the engine hesitated then under WOT the car was fine.

How can I test of the EGR valve is bad? Also, can I get 1 off a non-vtec obd1 f22b1 motor? Or am I stuck specifically getting this part from a vtec?

Thanks!

 

If there is a problem with the EGR system, the engine will set a code. Don't assume that the valve is bad, because the vacuum controls can be a problem.

The vacuum hoses have numbers stamped on them. Carefully trace the #16 hose from the EGR valve to the vacuum controls. There is a place near the firewall where you may have switched the vacuum hoses.

Also, in the common diy thread, there is a link on how to clean the EGR ports on the intake manifold. There is a link to online shop manuals, where the hondatec site has a 94 shop manual you can download for free as a pdf.

 

I am checking all that stuff out now. Will follow up! Thanks.

 

You really should compression test that new engine before putting any extra work or money into it. When I did my swap the first engine I got..was off ebay..and only after putting it in and starting it up did I realize it had a blown head gasket. The fourth cylinder was bad. I'm not saying yours is bad, or even hoping it is bad, I hope it's good, but just to be on the safe side.

Remember to pull the main relay and the distributor connectors or ecu fuse to disable fuel and spark if you do test it.

 

Not sure if this will help with some of the hoses and pieces/parts.

Doesn't really sound like it but can you do me a favor and tell us the color of the three wires going to the TPS?