'98 EX 2.3L auto. 180,000 miles. Had overheating problem a few months ago-leaking at top of radiator. Tried to "nurse it" back home and ended up blowing head gasket or cracking the head. Replaced radiator, hoses, thermostat, 2 sensors, 1 fan, plugs, wires, dist. cap & rotor. Added ceramic stop leak and it appears to be working (no water in oil) and bleed the cooling system from air. Still had problems with hard starting-plugs were real wet with gas. When it finally started it would sound as if it was cleaning out (missing) the excess gas and would run ok. It progressively got harder to start, and then wouldn't run smooth as it should. When I tried to push down on the pedal, it would bog down and would act as if the brakes were on and would only run if I kept my foot pressed lightly on the pedal. Barely got it home-now when I try to start it, it trys to fire up but not very often and won't start at all. Checked the plugs and they're dry. Can't see any water in the oil. I also replaced the O2 sensor up front, unhooked the battery cable and reconnected hoping to get CEL to come back on. Some of the codes were: PO 300, 301, 302, and 117 (coolant sensor behind the glove box I think). VTEC sensor tested ok. ECU is fine. Also checked compression which was good. Trans rebuilt @ about 120,000 miles along with timing belt. Any ideas what to test or check next before I take it to the shop? Thanks guys!

 

Bad head gasket is my guess. A leakdown test is called for.

 

I had similar, but less severe, symptoms on my 94 EX with bad head gasket. Coolant would get on plugs when hot engine was turned off. On re-start after a some time, engine would miss until coolant was exhausted. If you inspect a fully warmed engine, you may not see water unless you wait. I suspect what you thought was fuel was coolant.

No oil in coolant or coolant in oil does not indicate a good head gasket.

I would have pressurized leak test performed to find if leaks or external or internal (head gasket).

good luck

 

Thanks guys-I'll give my friend a call and ask him to come over and do a leakdown test. I'll let you know how it goes...

 

Had a friend come over-didn't do a leakdown test, but checked compression-195 in 3 cyls., 190 in the other one. He check down inside plug opening with scope (ok), checked spark (ok), but he didn't like the looks of the plugs. Said they were burnt. Less than 2,000 miles on plugs which were NGK ZFR5FGP (did they sell me the wrong ones?). I changed plugs this morning and put in NGK ZFR5F-11 (factory spec plug) and it acts like it wants to run but won't quite catch. Couldn't see any gas on plugs, so unhooked fuel pump line in the back and fuel pump is working. Took off main valve on injector rack and getting fuel there but still dry plugs. Sprayed a little ether in throttle body-still no luck. Pulled plug and put 1 quick spray directly in cyl. and put plug back in (1 at a time) still not starting. Anybody wanna buy it????????????? HA...

 

No start w/ ether (did you give a good 5 second blast?) strongly suggests a spark issue; either weak spark or timing.

Suggest checking spark plug wire alignment; 1-1, 2-2, etc. See shop manual for correct alignment. This can cause no-start w/ appearance of trying to start.

To rule out timing belt problem, align crankshaft to TDC (0 degree mark on indicator aligned to crankshaft pulley mark) and check camshaft alignment (horizontal marks on camshaft pulley align w/ back side timing belt cover). You will need to remove upper timing belt cover (outer part) to access camshaft marks.

good luck

 

Thanks for the info. I'll check today to be sure wires are correct and timing hasn't jumped...to be continued...